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Level 3 · Advanced · CTVET formatTrainee Manual

Garment Making and Industrial Sewing Level 3

Production lines, grading, tailoring, quality and safety, contracts and exports, then your own registered, costed and bookkept sewing business, with a 12-month plan you present to a panel.

A tailor at an industrial sewing machine A tailor sits at an industrial sewing machine on a table, guiding bright wax-print fabric under the needle. Behind her hangs a finished dress and a school uniform on hangers. A tape measure, scissors and a measurement card lie on the table. MEASURE · CUT · SEW · ON TIMEORDERS THAT SELL
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Prepared by De-Graft Afful · Version 1.0.0 · October 2026
01

About this module

At Level 2 you could draft, tailor and run a batch. At Level 3 you run the line, pass the inspections, win the contract, keep the books and build a business that outlives one order.

Who it is for. People who have finished Garment Making and Industrial Sewing Level 2, or who can show the same skills. Ghana's TVET framework has eight levels. National Proficiency II is for mostly routine work with limited supervision. National Certificate I is for "complex and varied activities under minimum supervision", and National Certificate II adds considerable responsibility and guiding others. This module is written at an advanced level, comparable to National Certificate I, reaching toward National Certificate II where you supervise staff. That is the author's matching, not an official ruling.

CTVET status. CTVET lists Fashion Design Technology at National Proficiency I and II. Its unit list was not found online, so this module is not a CTVET curriculum and is not accredited. It follows CTVET's format so it can be put forward later. The Youth Employment Agency also runs garment programmes with factory placements and apprenticeships.

Why advanced skills matter now

  • More than 70 per cent of the textiles and garments Ghanaians consume are imported each year, and the Government's 2026 Budget targets a garment sector of over US$2 billion and 150,000 jobs by 2033, up from about US$400 million.
  • The Trade Ministry asked the Ghana Standards Authority in February 2026 to test fabrics and develop standards for uniforms made by local manufacturers. Standards mean inspection, and inspection rewards makers who keep records.
  • DTRT Apparel in Tema employs about 2,500 people and trains new hires on the machines. Factories need supervisors who can balance a line, not only machinists.
  • But be careful: a large study of Ghana's apprenticeship programme found weak short-term earnings in garment making, possibly because new tailors lacked start-up capital. Advanced skill without a costed, registered business plan is not enough.

Bridge from Level 2: what you already know

  • Needle guards, switch-off routine, fire and lint control, a comfortable line, first help for a needle or burn
  • Draft a block, grade two sizes with a written rule, fit a toile and correct the pattern
  • Trousers, a lined jacket and a uniform set to a size chart; sample approval before a batch
  • Set up and look after lockstitch, overlock and buttonhole machines; compare machine prices
  • Operations, SAM, a cost sheet for a batch, price = cost ÷ (1 − margin), quality sheets with pass, repair and reject
  • Cloth sourcing, Kente and Made-in-Ghana rules, a quote and contract, how a tender works
  • Location checklist, Assembly fees, WhatsApp Business, a one-month accounts sheet, an apprentice plan

Level 2 did not cover balancing a whole line, choosing between production systems, a full costing of a cut-make-trim (CMT) order, grading a full size range, bridal and suit construction, machine fault-finding and planned maintenance, sampling inspection, electrical and fire safety, landed cost of imported cloth, working with designers and exporters, registering a business, or a full set of books and a 12-month forecast. This manual does. For general bookkeeping and venture basics see the hub's Money Skills Level 2 and Entrepreneurial Thinking Level 2; this manual goes deeper for sewing and tailoring only.

How the module works

Each unit has learning outcomes, performance criteria, the range and the evidence your assessor needs. You are judged Competent or Not Yet Competent. Units 1 to 4 are technical. Units 5 to 7 are about your own business. About 70% of the time is practical, following the split used by CTVET's Oil Palm programme, about 30% school and 70% workplace.

Every money figure marked example is invented to practise arithmetic. Fees, taxes and prices marked with a source were read on the page named in October 2026; confirm them before you pay or print, because they change.

02

Unit 1 · Production management and costing

A line that is busy is not always a line that is productive. Plan the flow, time the work, balance the people, and cost every piece before you accept the order.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
1.1 Choose a production system explains bundle, unit and whole-garment systems and picks one for a given order
1.2 Study the work times an operation, rates the operator and works out a SAM
1.3 Balance a line sets a target, shares operators across operations and finds the bottleneck
1.4 Control the flow uses bundle tickets, counts work in progress and keeps lots and shades together
1.5 Cost and quote a CMT order builds a cost per piece and a price, and tests it for risk

Range. A line of six or more operators; a batch of 60 or more pieces; one CMT quotation. Evidence. Timing sheets; balance sheet; WIP count; cost and quote sheet.

Three ways to move work through a shop

Progressive bundle system (PBS). Cut pieces are tied in bundles, often of 5, 10, 20 or 30 pieces, and each operator does one operation on the whole bundle before passing it on. Operators spend time tying and untying bundles, pulling tickets and positioning parts, and work-in-process (WIP) piles up in front of the operations that take longest. Its big advantage for a small shop is that it needs little more than tables and baskets.

Unit production system (UPS). One garment at a time moves, usually on an overhead hanger system, so WIP is low and throughput is shorter, but the overhead transport costs a lot of money. One practitioner notes that traditional UPS is generally not feasible for most small businesses, though a hand-moved version, with baskets passed along a table and two or three pieces waiting at each station, has worked for complex bags. In UPS each unit gets its own bundle with every input, which prevents mixing a collar from one lot with a body from another.

Whole-garment (modular) working. One operator or a small team builds the whole garment. This is how most tailors work, and it suits one-off and bridal work. It is slow for a 500-piece uniform order.

Throughput time is not sewing time. A garment can have only 12 minutes of sewing (12 SAM) and still take a week to get through a factory, because most of the time it is waiting in a pile. Your job as a line manager is to cut the waiting, not only to speed the sewing.

For a Takoradi workshop making 100 to 1,000 pieces, a small-bundle PBS with a ticket on every bundle is usually the right start (the author's advice). Keep bundles to one size, one lot and one shade, as you learned for uniforms in Level 2.

  • Bundle ticket. Style, size, colour or shade lot, bundle number, number of pieces, and a list of operations with a tick box for each.
  • Mixed lots. Never mix cloth from two rolls in one bundle if shade differs.
  • Count at every hand-off. If a bundle of 10 arrives with 9, find the missing piece now.
  • First-piece check. The first piece of every bundle is checked before the rest is sewn.

Work study and the standard allowed minute

Work study is the systematic examination of how work is done so as to use resources better and set standards of performance. Method study records and critically examines ways of doing things to improve them. Time study measures the time for each element under set conditions. A sound study uses enough cycles to be 95% sure that the average is within 5% of the true time.

In a time study you rate the operator against a standard of 100. Basic time = observed time × observed rating ÷ standard rating. A relaxation allowance is then added so the worker can recover and attend to personal needs, and its size depends on the job. SAM = basic time + allowances, in minutes. Level 2 gave the source's example of 0.60 minutes at a rating of 80% giving a basic time of 0.48 minutes. Allowance sizes in this manual are classroom examples, not standards.

Improve the method before you time it. If an operator reaches for each bundle across the table, move the table. If three stitches are sewn where one will do, remove two. A saving of 0.1 minute on an operation done 500 times is 50 minutes.

Time one operation (example)

You time an operation: 0.90 minutes per cycle, observed at a rating of 110 (standard rating 100). Add 5% for bundle handling and 15% for rest and personal needs, both of the basic time. (1) What is the basic time? (2) What is the SAM? (3) How many pieces an hour can one operator sew at 100% efficiency, and at 70%?

Balance the line

For one operation, capacity per operator per hour = 60 ÷ SAM, and operators needed = target per hour ÷ capacity. The source works with perfect, round numbers and says that for real shop-floor timings you round capacities, then club or split operations. Real operators do not work at 100%, so multiply capacity by the line's efficiency, the share of the available time that produces good work (the author's extension, using an example efficiency of 70%).

Daily target = operators × minutes in the day × efficiency ÷ total SAM Pitch time = total SAM ÷ number of operators

The slowest step sets the speed of the whole line (Level 2). That step is the bottleneck. Fix it by adding an operator, sharing its work, or improving its method.

Balance a shirt line (example)

Eight operations make a work shirt: A pocket 0.80; B shoulders 0.50; C collar 1.50; D sleeves 1.20; E side and sleeve seams 1.00; F cuffs 1.00; G hem 0.50; H buttonholes and buttons 0.50 (all SAM, example). You have 10 operators, an 8-hour day (480 minutes) and 70% efficiency (example). (1) Total SAM, pitch time and daily target. (2) Operators are placed A1, B1, C2, D2, E1, F1, G1, H1. Work out the hourly capacity of each operation, find the bottleneck, and give the line's real daily output. (3) Re-arrange the same 10 operators as: A1; C2; D2; E and F shared by 3; B, G and H shared by 2. Work out the new bottleneck and the daily output. (4) A method improvement cuts operation A to 0.70 minutes. What is the output now?

Count and control work in progress

Count WIP at each station every 30 minutes on a simple chart. If one station has 40 bundles waiting and the next is idle, the line is out of balance. A line with no WIP anywhere may be starved of cut work, which is a cutting-room problem. Level 2 told you to inspect at the first piece, midway and at the end; keep doing it.

Costing a cut-make-trim (CMT) order

In this manual CMT means the buyer or designer supplies the cloth and trims, and you are paid to cut, make (sew) and trim (finish and pack). When you buy the cloth too, the price is built differently (see Unit 4). A full garment cost has four parts: fabric (consumption plus wastage, plus freight and finance if imported), trims, thread, and labour, where labour = SAM × labour rate per minute. The page's worked example uses 3% wastage, thread costed from the length used per garment and the cone price, and a labour cost of SAM 40 at US$0.03 a minute, giving US$1.20. For a CMT price you build the labour, the thread, the overhead and a margin.

Labour cost per minute = monthly wage ÷ minutes available in the month Labour per piece = SAM × cost per minute ÷ efficiency CMT price = (labour + overhead + thread and packing) ÷ (1 − margin)

Price a CMT order for 5,000 shirts (example)

Operator wage GH¢900 a month (example). The month has 26 working days of 480 minutes. The shirt's total work content including cutting and finishing is 10.0 SAM, and efficiency is 70%. Monthly overhead (rent, power, supervisor, machine upkeep) is GH¢5,500, spread over 480 shirts a day for 26 days. Thread and polybag cost GH¢0.60 a shirt. All figures are examples. (1) Labour cost per minute. (2) Labour per shirt. (3) Overhead per shirt. (4) Total cost and the price for a 15% margin on price. (5) Value of the 5,000-shirt order. (6) The buyer offers GH¢2.20 a shirt: what is your profit per shirt and on the order? (7) If efficiency falls to 60%, what happens at GH¢2.20? Assume overhead per shirt is unchanged.

Do not accept a CMT price you have not costed. Large buyers and designers compare you with factories. Quote what you can deliver on time, at the quality they inspect (Unit 3), with a margin that survives a bad week.

Plan the order

Work backwards from the delivery date. List: cutting day, sewing days (batch quantity ÷ daily line output), finishing and packing, inspection, and a buffer of one or two days. Tailors' leaders say deliver on time to keep trust. Write your date on the order, then build the plan to meet it.

Run a bundle line

  1. Time three operations on a simple shirt or tunic with a stopwatch; rate the operator; work out a SAM for each.
  2. Calculate the daily target and operators per operation; place your trainees; name the bottleneck.
  3. Run a 60-piece batch for one session using bundle tickets; count WIP every 30 minutes and chart it.
  4. Re-balance the line and run another 30 pieces; compare output.
  5. Fill in a CMT cost sheet and quote for a 1,000-piece order.

Watch a workshop

Visit a tailoring workshop or factory. Draw how work moves through it, and count how many pieces wait at each machine for ten minutes. Where would you move a table?

03

Unit 2 · Advanced patterns, grading and tailoring

A pattern you can grade in writing, a suit you can fit in three stages, and a bridal bodice you can build in layers: this is work people pay well for.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
2.1 Develop styles from a block slashes, spreads and redraws a block into at least three styles and checks seam lengths
2.2 Grade a full size range writes a grade rule for each point and grades a pattern up and down
2.3 Build a size chart for a contract measures a group, builds a size chart and checks a sample garment
2.4 Plan fabric use builds a marker and works out cloth per garment and the cost
2.5 Tailor suits and corporate wear makes a lined jacket and trousers, fitted in three stages, with correct pressing
2.6 Build a bridal bodice builds a layered, boned bodice on a form and plans fittings

Range. Shirt, skirt or dress, jacket, trousers; a three-size grade; one bridal bodice. Evidence. Pattern pieces; grade sheet; size chart; marker; garments; fitting records; photos.

From block to style

You met three ways to change a pattern in Level 2: fold out extra, slash and spread or overlap, or redraw darts and seams. Keep the grain line and match any piece that touches the changed one, such as a collar after a neckline change. At Level 3 you make styles from one block (for example a shirt, a shirt with a yoke, and a fitted shirt with back darts) and you check seam lengths every time: a sleeve cap must fit its armhole, and a collar its neckline. After any large change, sew a test garment before you cut valuable cloth.

Grade a whole range

Grading makes a set of sizes from one base pattern, and each key point moves by its own amount, not by one percentage, so proportions and seam lengths still fit together. The rules depend on the garment, the customer and the size chart, and there is no one universal rule, so you write your own and keep them. After grading, check that seam lengths, notches, darts and panels still match; for example, a sleeve cap must still match its armhole.

Do not print or photocopy a pattern bigger by a percentage and call it a new size. A copy at 105% enlarges everything by the same ratio, including seam allowances, and body measurements do not change in proportion in every direction. Professional ranges may use separate blocks for different size groups, because simple rules distort proportions the farther you are from the base size.

The methods you know still work. Cut and spread is easy but slow, and errors build up over many sizes. Pattern shifting moves each piece by a fixed amount from a fixed point and traces it onto new paper. Write the rule for every point on a grade sheet: point, direction, amount per size. Keep it with the master pattern.

Grade a work shirt (example rules)

A classroom example, not a standard. Base size M: chest 100 cm, shoulder width 44 cm, back length 74 cm, armhole length 52 cm, sleeve cap length 55 cm. Grade rule for each size step: chest +4 cm in total, shoulder width +1.2 cm in total, back length +1.5 cm, armhole length +0.8 cm, sleeve cap length +0.8 cm. (1) Chest of S, L and XL. (2) How much does each of the four quarter-pieces (left and right front, left and right back) grow in width for one size step? (3) Shoulder width of XL. (4) Back length of S and XL. (5) Armhole and sleeve cap of L, and the sleeve cap ease (cap length minus armhole length) in M and L. (6) Why is printing the M pattern at 105% not a correct way to make L?

A size chart for a contract

Free school uniforms went wrong on sizes: a report listed uniforms that were wrongly labelled, too big or too small, and made of poor cloth. For a school, church or company order:

  • Measure a sample of the real wearers, not a chart from another country (the author's advice)
  • Build a size chart with a size name, chest, waist, length and sleeve for every size; allow ease
  • Make one sample in each of the extreme sizes and one in the middle; get the customer to sign the sample (Level 2)
  • Label every piece with its size; check every piece against the chart within 1 cm (Level 2)
  • Keep a tolerance table: how far a measurement may differ from the chart and still pass

Plan fabric: the marker

A marker is the layout of all the pattern pieces for a set of sizes on the cloth. A good marker uses the cloth width well and cuts the metres per garment. You calculate: cloth length for the lay = marker length + end allowance, multiplied by the number of layers.

How much cloth for 120 shirts? (example)

A marker holds one each of sizes S, M and L (3 shirts) and is 2.15 m long. Allow 0.05 m at each end of each layer for cutting. You spread 40 layers. Cloth is GH¢25 a metre (example). An older estimate for these shirts was 0.80 m of cloth a shirt. (1) Length of cloth used. (2) Metres and cost per shirt. (3) Compared with the old estimate, how many metres and how much money do you save on the batch?

Tailoring suits and corporate wear

You made a lined jacket in Level 2. A common order of work is: shape the under collar, front, back and shoulder seam; tailor the collar and pockets; set the sleeves with the shoulder pads; finish hem and vents; add the lining; topstitch; then buttons and buttonholes, pressing at every stage. A full-canvas jacket has canvas through the whole front, a half-canvas jacket has it through the chest and lapel only, and a fused jacket uses fusible interfacing alone. Corporate wear made in a batch uses fused interfacing; canvas is for premium orders (Level 2). Tell the customer which one they are paying for.

Three fittings (the author's suggestion, adapted to your workload):

  • Fitting 1, basted or toile. Check balance, shoulders, collar and length of sleeve and jacket. Change the pattern, not only the cloth.
  • Fitting 2, structure. Sleeves in, lining not yet; check how the jacket hangs, the lapel roll and the trouser rise and seat.
  • Fitting 3, final. Hem the trousers on the person; check buttons, buttonholes and pressing.

Corporate wear. Banks, security firms, clinics and schools buy the same style many times. Keep a signed sample, a size chart and a written specification (Level 2). The Ghana Standards Authority was asked in 2026 to develop standards for locally produced uniforms: ask the GSA what applies before you tender for institutional wear.

Price a suit (example)

You sew a two-piece suit using the customer's cloth. Labour 28 hours at GH¢25 an hour; lining, interfacing, buttons and thread GH¢260; share of rent, power and machine upkeep GH¢90. All figures are examples. (1) Total cost? (2) Price for a 30% margin on price? (3) 50% deposit? (4) The customer cancels after you have cut the cloth and sewn 10 hours: what do you keep, and why should this be written in the contract?

Bridal and occasion wear

Bridal bodices are often built in layers: an underlining, an outer fabric basted to it, a separate lining for a clean inside, and a foundation with the boning, all secured at the top. One couture maker built the inner corset first, with steel and spiral boning, and did not begin cutting the final fabrics until late in the process because brides often change slightly. Bias-cut and lightweight cloth stretches under its own weight, so assemble everything except the hem, hang the garment for at least 24 hours (longer for drapey or heavy cloth), then level the hem on the form or the person. Level it in the shoes the bride will wear (the author's advice). These are practitioner accounts, not a standard; no source found lays out the full fitting stages, so keep your own fitting record.

Customer-supplied cloth is a trust. Measure and count the cloth in front of the customer, write the length and description on the order, and photograph it. Never promise a remake from cloth you do not have. Silk, lace and imported cloth are costly and often cannot be replaced in Takoradi.

Time is the hidden cost. A bridal gown can take many times longer than a kaba and slit. Write your fitting dates into the order book and price the hours, or you will work for nothing.

Grade, mark, tailor

  1. Develop three styles from one shirt or bodice block and check every seam length.
  2. Grade a pattern to three sizes with a written grade sheet; check the sleeve cap and armhole.
  3. Build a size chart for a group of ten real wearers and measure a sample.
  4. Draw a marker for three sizes; work out cloth length, metres per piece and cost.
  5. Make a two-piece suit (fused is acceptable) with three recorded fittings.
  6. Build a boned, layered bridal bodice on a form with a corselette or boned underlining.
  7. Photograph each finished piece on a person.

Grade your own pattern

Take a pattern you use at home. Write a grade sheet for one size up and one size down. Sew a test garment in the larger size. Record what went wrong.

04

Unit 3 · Machines, quality systems and a safe workshop

A stopped machine, a faulty batch and an accident all cost more than the habit that would have prevented them. Build the habits into the shop.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
3.1 Find and fix machine faults works through a fault checklist for skipped stitches, thread breaks and puckering and knows when to call a mechanic
3.2 Run planned maintenance keeps a machine log, a service plan and a spare-parts box
3.3 Run a quality system classes defects, samples a lot, decides pass or reject and fixes the cause
3.4 Make the workshop safe checks electrical, fire, ergonomic and lint risks and meets the employer's duties
3.5 Supervise a team briefs, sets hours and overtime fairly, trains new workers and records accidents

Range. A workshop of six or more machines and four or more workers. Evidence. Fault log; machine log; inspection records; safety audit; supervision plan.

Find the fault: a checklist

Most sewing faults come from a few causes. A trainer who checks them in order saves hours. Ten reasons for skipped stitches are: wrong threading, weak foot pressure so the cloth flags up, a dull or worn needle, wrong needle size, wrong needle type for the cloth, too little lubrication, thread that is wrong for the job, poor-quality thread, a needle size that does not match the thread weight, and worn or burred thread guides and eyelets. Juki's maker FAQ for its lockstitch machines points first to the needle being fully seated and facing the right way, scratches on the hook tip and a bent needle. Dull or bent needles can cause skipped stitches and broken thread, and misaligned needles and a worn hook can do the same.

Symptom Check first Then check Call a mechanic when
Skipped stitches Fresh needle of the right size and type, fully seated, facing right Re-thread with the presser foot up; foot pressure; lint at the hook Hook tip scratched, or the needle and hook still miss each other, because timing is wrong
Thread breaks Thread path against the manual; needle burrs; tension not too high Lint in tension discs, needle plate and bobbin case; rough guides or eyelets A guide or the hook is burred and you cannot smooth it
Puckered seam Upper tension too tight; bent or blunt needle Stitch length too short for the cloth; test on a scrap of the same cloth The feed dog is worn or the pressure foot is bent
Uneven stitch Upper and bobbin tension balanced Bobbin wound evenly; bobbin case clean Bobbin case is damaged

One informal test for balance: pull a test seam apart by hand; if the thread on one side breaks, that side's thread is the tighter one. The Elna table is a domestic-machine manual; for factory machines follow the maker's manual. A bent needle or a wrongly seated needle changes the timing of the machine, and a loose timing belt gives inconsistent distances between hook and needle. Ask a trained mechanic to set the timing (the author's advice).

Switch off and unplug before you open a machine. Do not clear a fault with the motor on. Tag a faulty machine "Do not use" (Level 2).

What is wrong? (example)

Match the cause to the fault: (a) skipped stitches on stretch cloth; (b) thread breaks every few seconds; (c) seam puckers on thin cloth; (d) loops of thread under the seam. Causes: 1 upper tension too tight; 2 needle blunt and the wrong type for the cloth; 3 lint packed in the tension discs; 4 top thread not in the tension discs because the presser foot was down when you threaded.

Planned maintenance

A factory maintenance log tracks lubrication points, needle bar condition, hook wear, feed-dog alignment and guard condition, with a yes, no or not-applicable answer for each item and running hours so that service is planned instead of reactive. Put these into three levels.

When Who What
Every day The operator Brush lint from the hook area and feed dogs; check guards; check the needle; oil only the points the manual shows, with the oil it names
Every week The line leader Inspect guards, needles and work areas; clean under the needle plate and tension discs; record in the log
Every few months, or by hours A mechanic Service, timing, belts, motor; follow the maker's manual

Overlockers make a lot of lint. Clean around the feed dogs every three to four months by taking off the stitch plate, clean lint from between the knives, avoid compressed air because it pushes lint deeper, and use only the oil your machine needs because too much oil attracts lint. The guide was written for home overlockers, so follow the maker's manual for factory machines. A maintenance guide for factories may mention compressed air for bobbin cases; do not use it in a room full of cloth dust, and clean with a brush or vacuum.

Keep a log for every machine: asset number, make and model, date bought, hours, each fault, the cause, the repair, who did it, and the cost. After a year you will know which machine to replace. Keep a spare box: needles in the common sizes, bobbin cases, belts, bulbs, feed-dog screws and the oil. Level 2 gave machine prices, such as about GH¢3,800–5,500 for most industrial overlockers.

The cost of a stopped machine (example)

Your 10-operator line (Unit 1) makes 56 shirts an hour when balanced. Each operator earns GH¢900 a month (example), a month has 12,480 minutes, and your CMT price is GH¢2.44 a shirt. The bottleneck machine stops for 2 hours because nobody has a spare belt. (1) Cost per minute of the whole line's wages? (2) Wages paid for the 2 hours? (3) Output lost, and its value at the CMT price?

A quality system, not only a quality check

Level 2 taught you to inspect the first piece, midway and at the end, and to count faults. At Level 3 you build a system.

Classes of defect. Apparel buyers commonly sort defects into three classes: critical, which creates a safety hazard or breaks a legal requirement, for example a broken needle left in a garment or a drawstring in children's wear, with no tolerance; major, which affects function, durability, fit or saleability, such as an open seam, a broken zip or a wrong size; and minor, cosmetic faults such as loose threads. Buyers often ask for no critical defects, AQL 2.5 for major and AQL 4.0 for minor, but the buyer's own specification or purchase order always overrides a general rule.

Sampling. AQL means acceptable quality limit. Under the ISO 2859-1 sampling plan, General Inspection Level II is the default level, and the sample size depends on the size of the lot, not on the AQL. For lots of 501–1,200 the sample is 80, for 1,201–3,200 it is 125, and for 3,201–10,000 it is 200. You draw the sample at random from the whole lot. For a lot of 3,201–10,000 with AQL 2.5 for major and 4.0 for minor, the lot is accepted if the sample of 200 has no more than 10 major and 14 minor defects. For a lot of 1,200 with a sample of 80, one worked example accepts up to 5 major and 7 minor. The tables in different sources do not fully agree, so use the table in the standard your buyer names, not this manual's.

Pass or reject? (example)

A school uniform lot of 1,200 is inspected at AQL 2.5 major and 4.0 minor, using the figures above. You find 4 major and 8 minor defects in the sample of 80. A second lot of 3,500 jackets is inspected with a sample of 200: 9 major and 12 minor. (1) Does lot 1 pass? (2) Lot 2? (3) In the first lot you also find a needle fragment inside one pocket. What is the result? (4) What do you do with a rejected lot?

Find the cause, not only the piece. For every fault the system does four things:

  • Record it on the quality sheet: what, how many, which operation, which operator, which machine
  • Fix the pieces: repair or reject
  • Find the cause: ask "why?" until you reach something you can change, such as a blunt needle, a wrong setting or a missing instruction
  • Change the procedure and tell the team, then check that the fault stops

Zones. A fault in the front of a shirt is worse than a fault on the inside of a hem. Mark the visible zones on your inspection sheet.

Safety: electricity, fire, ergonomics and dust

Machines. The UK safety regulator advises robust needle guards adjusted for each operator's finger size, guards on vee belts and pulleys, cables supplied from overhead so they do not cross the floor, power off and feet off the pedal when adjusting or changing needles, lighting that stays on when the motor is off, seating that allows good posture, and a weekly inspection of guards, needles and work areas.

Electricity. Many fire incidents in Ghana are linked to poor wiring and the use of unqualified people for installations, and the Energy Commission asked electricians in June 2026 to get the required licences and permits. Use a licensed electrician for your workshop wiring (the author's advice). Do not run many irons and motors from one socket, and do not repair cables yourself. If a machine smells hot, sparks or makes a new noise, switch off at the wall (Level 2).

Fire. The Ghana National Fire Service says business premises need a fire certificate. The fire service's online charges page lists a non-residential certificate at GH¢500 plus processing fees. Ask GNFS which extinguishers your shop needs. In general, advice from fire-safety suppliers is that carbon dioxide extinguishers suit electrical fires and water should not be used on them. Lint and piles of cloth burn: keep an exit clear, switch off and unplug at closing, and never leave an iron face-down (Level 2).

Ergonomics. In a study of 100 tailors and dressmakers in Madina, 60–74% had back, neck or shoulder pain, and the study says better set-ups could raise output two to three times. Provide chairs with backrests, task lighting and breaks to stand and stretch. Dust. Clean with a damp cloth or vacuum, never a broom or blowing.

The employer's duties. Ghana's Labour Act 2003 (Act 651) says it is the employer's duty to make sure every worker works under satisfactory, safe and healthy conditions. This includes providing and maintaining safe plant and systems of work, giving information, instruction, training and supervision, supplying safety appliances, fire-fighting equipment and protective equipment at no cost to the worker, providing separate and suitable toilets and washing facilities, and clean drinking water (section 118). An employer who fails without reasonable excuse commits an offence punishable by a fine of up to 1,000 penalty units or imprisonment up to 3 years, or both (section 118). A worker who has reasonable cause to believe there is imminent and serious danger must report it to the supervisor and may remove himself or herself from it, and the employer must not dismiss or withhold pay for doing so (section 119). The employer must report occupational accidents and diseases to the appropriate government agency as soon as possible and not later than seven days after they occur (section 120). This is not legal advice.

Supervise a team

  • Brief at the start of the day: target, who does which operation, what quality fault to watch for, any safety change
  • Show, then watch: for a new worker, show the switch-off routine and the guard, and watch the first hour (Level 2)
  • Use pictures and signs for deaf workers; supervisors at DTRT learned sign language and the factory uses a sign-language dictionary and video tutorials
  • Hours: the Labour Act sets a maximum of 8 hours a day or 40 hours a week, with exceptions the Act allows (section 33)
  • Overtime: a worker may not be required to work overtime unless the undertaking has fixed overtime rates, with exceptions for businesses that need overtime to be viable or face emergencies (section 35)
  • Pregnant women and young mothers: without her consent, a pregnant woman cannot be assigned night work between 10 pm and 7 am, and a pregnant woman or the mother of a child under eight months cannot be engaged for overtime (section 55)
  • Notice: a contract of less than three years can end with two weeks' written notice or pay in lieu, and a contract of three years or more with one month's notice (section 17)
  • Record every accident and report it within seven days (section 120)

Piece rates and the minimum wage. Many workshops pay by the piece, using the SAM and a rate per minute. Whether piece pay must still reach the 2026 daily minimum wage of GH¢21.77 depends on the contract and the Labour Act: this was not verified. For comparison, the ILO reports that in various countries the law says pieceworkers' pay may not fall below the minimum wage, and the employer must pay the difference; other countries set a piece minimum based on a "standard output". That is not Ghana law. Ask the Labour Department or a lawyer before you start.

Fix, inspect, audit

  1. Tag three faults on workshop machines; work through the fault checklist; fix what you may fix and refer the rest to a mechanic.
  2. Start a machine log and a spare box for the training line.
  3. Inspect a lot of 80 garments (a sample from a bigger lot) and sort the defects into critical, major and minor; decide pass or reject; write the cause and corrective action.
  4. Audit the workshop for electrical, fire, ergonomic and lint risks, using the Labour Act duties above; fix three problems.
  5. Brief a team of four for one session and record hours, targets and any accident.

Ask a mechanic and a buyer

Ask a sewing machine mechanic what faults he sees most. Ask a buyer or shop owner what makes them reject a garment. Write both answers.

05

Unit 4 · Cloth, contracts, tenders and exporting

Big orders pay well and are signed in writing, and cloth is the biggest cost you have. Buy well, bid honestly, and know what an export buyer expects before you say yes.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
4.1 Buy cloth in bulk compares suppliers, tests shrinkage and shade and works out the landed cost
4.2 Explain import options lists the steps, papers and costs of importing and says what is not verified
4.3 Bid for uniform and institutional work prices, tests the cash flow and lists the steps of a tender
4.4 Work with a designer takes a design brief, makes a sample and agrees price, samples and payment
4.5 Explain exporting describes AGOA, AfCFTA, GEPA and Made-in-Ghana, and says when to subcontract to a factory

Range. Two real or sample suppliers; one tender; one designer brief; one export-readiness checklist. Evidence. Landed-cost sheet; shrinkage test; tender cash-flow; designer sample and agreement; checklist.

Buy cloth in bulk

Cloth is the biggest cost of a garment. You compared suppliers in Level 2: price per metre, colour fastness, width, minimum order and delivery. At Level 3 add:

  • Shade lot. Order the whole job from one dye lot. A second lot may not match.
  • Shrinkage test. Wash and dry a swatch the way the customer will, and measure the change. Shrinkage % = (before − after) ÷ before × 100.
  • Width and weight. Check the usable width inside the selvedge; the marker (Unit 2) depends on it.
  • Faults. Unroll a sample of the roll under light; count the metres lost to flaws.
  • Terms. Price per metre, minimum order, delivery, payment days and the return of faulty cloth in writing.
  • Deposit. Pay a supplier a deposit only after you hold a signed order from your own customer (Level 2).

Shrinkage (example)

A 50 cm × 50 cm swatch measures 47 cm along the length and 48 cm across the width after washing. (1) Shrinkage in length and width? (2) You need 100 m of usable finished length after the cloth shrinks in length by the percentage you found. How many metres must you buy?

Local sources include Takoradi's Market Circle, the Western Region's commercial hub, which has thousands of traders selling textiles among other goods, and Ghana-made wax print produced by GTP since 1966. Ghana imports approximately 95 per cent of its textile raw materials, including dyes, auxiliaries, and natural and synthetic fabrics, according to a 2026 account of a KNUST professor's view of the draft national policy. So even local cloth often has imported inputs, and prices move with the cedi.

Importing cloth: landed cost

If you import cloth or trims, the price on the invoice is only the start. Landed cost = invoice + freight + insurance + import duty and other taxes + clearing and port charges + transport to your shop. Ghana's duty and tax rates on fabric were not verified for this module: the trade-data pages found describe classification under the ECOWAS Common External Tariff but did not give a 2026 rate for fabrics. As a guide, the ECOWAS Common External Tariff, adopted in 2013, has five bands: 0% for essential social goods, 5% for raw goods and capital goods, 10% for intermediate goods and inputs, 20% for finished consumer goods and 35% for specific goods for economic development. Which band your cloth falls in depends on its tariff code, and other taxes and levies are added on top. Ask a licensed customs agent or GRA Customs for the rate on your cloth's code before you order. Level 2 told you to ask for samples first and to check who will repair any machine (Level 2).

Import or buy locally? (example)

You can import 4,000 m of cloth. Invoice GH¢60,000. Freight and insurance GH¢4,000. Import duty and clearing, assumed at 20% of invoice plus freight (an assumption, not the real rate). Port and local transport GH¢2,200. A Takoradi supplier offers the same quality at GH¢21 a metre delivered. (1) Landed cost and cost per metre? (2) Is importing cheaper? (3) What if the duty and clearing are 35% instead? (4) Name two risks of importing besides cost.

Uniform contracts and tenders (Level 3 detail)

You learned the steps in Level 2. Public bodies buy under the Public Procurement Act 2003 (Act 663) as amended by Act 914 of 2016. For purchases below the international tender threshold, the rules point to national competitive tendering for qualified domestic bidders or requests for quotation. Suppliers bidding for government contracts must be registered with the Public Procurement Authority, and tenders are advertised on the GHANEPS e-procurement portal. One guide reports a registration fee of GH¢500 and renewal of GH¢300, while an older announcement said GH¢300, so confirm with the PPA. The current quotation limit and tender security rules were not verified.

The opportunity is growing. The Trade Minister told a July 2025 stakeholder meeting that uniforms for schools, health facilities and security services are bought in large volumes and that the Government would develop a centralised list of approved local manufacturers and ask public institutions to include local content in procurement plans. The Association of Ghana Apparel Manufacturers, supported by the ILO, is lobbying ministries on public uniform and apparel procurement. The Ghana Standards Authority has been asked to test fabrics and develop uniform standards. A national dialogue also urged using community tailors for free school uniforms.

The risk is payment. In November 2024 the National Association of Institutional Suppliers said its members had still not been fully paid for uniform and house-dress contracts, with arrears from 2022–2023 and part of 2023–2024. A report on the free uniform scheme listed wrongly labelled, ill-fitting and poor-quality uniforms.

Can you afford this tender? (example)

A school asks for 400 uniform sets. Your cost per set is GH¢84.17 (from the Level 2 batch, rounded) and your price is GH¢105. Terms: 30% deposit, the balance 60 days after delivery. You must fund the work until the balance is paid, about 3 months in all. A lender charges 3% a month flat (example). (1) Contract value and cost? (2) Deposit and the amount you must find yourself? (3) Interest for 3 months on that amount? (4) Profit before and after interest? (5) What happens to the profit if the school pays 6 months late?

Work with a designer

Designers bring styles; you bring skill, machines and time. Agree these in writing before you start (the author's advice):

  • The brief: drawings or photos, measurements, cloth and trims, colours and sizes (a "tech pack" of these is the usual name)
  • A sample: one finished garment, signed off before the batch
  • Who owns the pattern and the right to make the style for others
  • Price per piece and what it covers: cut, make, trim, or cloth and trims too
  • Deposit, stage payments and delivery date, and what happens to late changes
  • Confidentiality: do not show the designer's style to other customers
  • Credit: whether you may photograph and post the work

Small Ghanaian fashion firms market mainly through WhatsApp, Instagram and Facebook: ask permission before you post anyone's design.

Exporting: what you can honestly do now

AGOA. The African Growth and Opportunity Act lets eligible African countries ship many products, including apparel, to the United States with duty-free access. It lapsed on 30 September 2025 and was renewed in early 2026 through 31 December 2026, backdated to the lapse, with a one-year window meant to review rules of origin and eligibility. Exporters who paid duty in the gap may be able to recover it, but only after the U.S. tariff schedule is updated. Ghana's foreign minister said the extension would boost local garment production and create jobs. On 1 September 2026 an industry association reported that the House of Representatives had passed a two-year extension, to 31 December 2028, as part of a funding bill, and that it had not yet been signed. Kenya's government news agency reported on 5 September 2026 that the extension had been signed into law by the US President, so AGOA now runs to 31 December 2028. Do not sign a multi-year export contract that depends on AGOA until you check the current expiry with the Ministry of Trade or GEPA.

AfCFTA. The African Continental Free Trade Area aims to cut tariffs between African countries. When the Council of Ministers agreed rules of origin for about 4,650 products in 2022, textiles and clothing were left unconcluded. A later report says ministers reached consensus on transitional rules for clothing, textiles and automotive, but the details were not verified. Ask GEPA what rule applies to your product before you quote.

GEPA and the paperwork. The Ghana Export Promotion Authority urges exporters to register to benefit from its information and capacity-building services. A law-firm guide describes the general sequence for non-traditional exports: register the business, get a TIN, register with GEPA, have premises inspected, and for each shipment get an export consignment certificate and present a packing list, invoice and certificate of origin to GRA Customs; the fees quoted are dated, so verify them. The Ghana Standards Authority administers the Made in Ghana logo, which must not be used without written permission. Never label printed cloth as Kente.

The realistic route for most shops is to subcontract. Large exporters such as DTRT Apparel employ about 2,500 people in Tema. A small workshop is more likely to sew for a designer or a factory under a CMT contract than to ship by itself. To do that you need a signed sample, a costed price (Unit 1), a quality system (Unit 3) and the cash flow to wait for payment.

Buy, bid and brief

  1. Collect quotes for the same cloth from three suppliers; do a shrinkage test on a sample from each; compute the landed cost per metre for the best one.
  2. Write a tender response for a uniform order: specification, price, cash-flow check and delivery plan.
  3. Take a design brief from a classmate acting as a designer; make a sample; agree a price and deposit.
  4. Complete an export-readiness checklist for your workshop: documents, quality, capacity, cash, unknowns to check.

Phone the Ministry or GEPA

Phone or email GEPA or the Ministry of Trade, Agribusiness and Industry. Ask for the current AGOA status for apparel and how a small garment maker registers. Record the answer and the date.

06

Unit 5 · Establish your own sewing business

You can sew, grade, tailor and run a line. Now make a business that is legal, safe, funded and findable.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
5.1 Choose a legal form compares sole proprietor, partnership, company and cooperative and picks one
5.2 Register step by step lists every body, document and fee a sewing business needs in Takoradi
5.3 Plan premises and start-up chooses a site and prices the start-up budget
5.4 Fund and plan compares funding sources and writes a one-page plan
5.5 Staff, insure and protect hires under the Labour Act, plans insurance and safety
5.6 Market the business sets up WhatsApp Business, a Google listing, a sign and a portfolio

Range. The trainee's own planned business in Sekondi-Takoradi or the Western Region. Evidence. Registration checklist; start-up budget; funding plan; one-page plan; two-minute pitch.

See the hub's Entrepreneurial Thinking Level 2 and Money Skills Level 2 for the basics. This unit applies them to a sewing business.

Choose the legal form

Form Law and cost (2026) Think about
Sole proprietor (business name) Registration with the Office of the Registrar of Companies (ORC): GH¢130; renewal GH¢70 a year Simple; the owner has unlimited liability, so your own house can be at risk for the business's debts
Partnership Incorporated Private Partnerships Act 1962 (Act 152): GH¢270; renewal GH¢100 a year; 2 to 20 partners; a partnership agreement stamped by the Lands Commission Valuation Division Needs a written agreement on who puts in what and who does what
Company limited by shares GH¢585 plus a 1% capital duty on stated capital (the rate as the page states it; check the form); at least two directors and a secretary; a consent letter from a chartered accountant (ICAG); beneficial-owner details Needs a first annual return 18 months after incorporation, then each year; yearly return GH¢175
Company limited by guarantee GH¢490; for NGOs, churches and social enterprises, with no profit to members Not for a profit-making workshop
Cooperative Not registered at the ORC; it needs an organisational TIN from GRA The Department of Co-operatives route and fees were not verified; ask before you start. Needs bye-laws

Late annual returns cost GH¢1,000 for one to four years late and GH¢2,000 for five or more. Most solo tailors start as sole proprietors, and move to a company when they hire many staff, sign large contracts or take in outside owners (the author's advice).

Register step by step

Step Body What and cost
1 ORC Register your business name: GH¢130
2 GRA The Ghana Card PIN is your individual TIN since 1 April 2021; a company gets a GRA TIN after ORC registration
3 Assembly (STMA) Business Operating Permit through the STMA portal. The 2025 fee schedule lists non-industrial dressmaker or tailor at GH¢120 small, GH¢150 medium and GH¢190 large, and industrial fashion designer large at GH¢1,600 a year; a 30% penalty applies if you do not register. Confirm your category
4 Ghana National Fire Service Fire certificate; the online charges page lists non-residential at GH¢500 plus processing fees
5 SSNIT Register as an employer when you hire; register workers on hiring
6 GRA Choose your tax route (below)
7 Data Protection Commission You keep customers' names, phone numbers and body measurements: check whether you must register
8 GSA Optional: the Made in Ghana logo, with written permission only
9 National Insurance Commission Buy cover only from an NIC-licensed insurer

The FDA and EPA permits that soap makers and food processors need do not normally apply to a sewing workshop; ask the Assembly if you do dyeing, printing or large-scale laundering, because those may need an environmental permit that was not checked for this manual. Keep a folder of every certificate and renewal date (see the filing calendar in Unit 6).

Tax route. Under the Modified Taxation Scheme, a resident individual with business income only and not VAT-registered pays fixed instalments on turnover up to GH¢20,000 and 3% of turnover, or tax on a modified cash basis, on turnover of GH¢20,001 to GH¢750,000, paid by *880# or the MTS app; professionals, owners of several businesses or outlets and partners are excluded. Companies pay income tax at 25%, or 18.5% for manufacturers in regional capitals other than Accra and Tema, which includes Takoradi, 12.5% outside regional capitals, and 8% for non-traditional exporters; ask GRA whether your sewing company counts as a manufacturer. From 1 January 2026 VAT is 15% plus NHIL 2.5% and GETFund 2.5%, and the registration threshold for goods rose from GH¢200,000 to GH¢750,000. For services such as sewing to a customer's order or alterations there is no turnover threshold: taxable services must be registered within 30 days of starting. Show cloth (goods) and labour (service) separately on invoices and ask GRA how your work is classed.

Premises and location

Level 2's checklist still holds: footfall near fabric sellers, markets, schools or offices (as in Takoradi's Market Circle), a visible sign, reliable power with a back-up, space for cutting, sewing and fitting, and a step-free entrance. A rent gives you a workspace but not a customer; one factor is that the busy seasons are school reopening, Christmas and, weekly, Fugu Wednesdays (Level 1). Check with the Assembly before you pay rent, and ask the landlord in writing how much rent must be paid in advance. Tariffs changed in July 2026, so ask what the power will cost.

Start-up budget (example)

A planned shop with four industrial lockstitch machines, one overlocker and room for four workers. Machine prices follow the online listings shown in Level 2; everything else is an example.

Item GH¢ (example)
4 used industrial lockstitch machines at 3,700 each 14,800
1 industrial overlocker 4,500
1 industrial steam iron 1,200
Cutting table, shears, rulers, curves, tape measures 2,500
2 dress forms 1,200
Chairs with backrests, task lights, shelves 2,400
Extinguisher, first-aid kit, wiring check by a licensed electrician 1,100
Equipment total 27,700
Registration: business name 130, Assembly permit 190, fire certificate 500 820
Sign, portfolio photos, data 600
Rent for 3 months at 600 1,800
Opening stock of thread, trims, lining 3,000
Working cash 5,000
Total 38,920

The registration fees come from the sources above. The fire certificate is the listed charge only; processing fees are extra and were not found.

Fund the start-up

Use the total above. The owner has GH¢20,000 in savings and a savings-group (susu or VSLA) loan of GH¢6,000. A microfinance lender offers the rest over 12 months at a flat 3% a month on the original loan (example, not a real quote). (1) How much more is needed? (2) What share of the total is the owner's own money? (3) How much interest will the loan cost over 12 months, and what is the monthly instalment? (4) Interest as a share of the loan is how much? What should you ask the lender for in writing?

Funding options

  • Savings and savings groups. Government is linking savings groups to banks.
  • Loans. Check the lender is licensed and ask for the APR in writing. The Bank of Ghana policy rate was 14.00% and inflation 5.2%.
  • Ghana Enterprises Agency (GEA). Programmes include SME GO, Business-in-a-Box (BizBox), SME High Growth and Kaizen, and business advisory centres operate in Takoradi, Shama, Effia-Kwesimintsim, Mpohor and Ahanta West. It has given over GH¢700 million to small businesses. Its financial-support page was out of date, so ask the centre which rounds are open.
  • 2026 Budget programmes. GH¢170 million for the National Apprenticeship Programme, GH¢160 million for Adwumawura, GH¢110 million for the 24-Hour Economy and GH¢401 million for a Women's Development Bank. Check who can apply.
  • Youth Employment Agency. Garment programmes with six months of factory training or a 12-month apprenticeship with a certified master.
  • Assemblies' disability fund. It rose from 3% to 5% in 2026, aimed at skills, assistive devices and start-up capital.
  • Women's programmes. NEWIG and the Coca-Cola Foundation trained 54 women in Sekondi-Takoradi with start-up kits.
  • Ghana EXIM Bank. SME and export facilities, with an office in Takoradi.

Never pay an "application" or "processing" fee to get a grant or loan. Real programmes do not ask for fees to a personal number. Verify at the agency's office.

Staff and apprentices

The Labour Act requires a written contract for jobs of six months or more (section 12), a written statement of main terms within two months (section 13), and at least 15 working days of paid annual leave (section 20). Maternity leave is 12 weeks. A casual worker is paid the full minimum for each day. The 2026 national daily minimum wage is GH¢21.77, about GH¢588 a month at 27 days. With SSNIT the worker pays 5.5% and the employer 13% of basic pay, 18.5% in all; the employer remits 13.5% to SSNIT within 14 days after month-end and 5% goes to a private Tier 2 trustee. Register workers when you hire them, and note that a late payment costs 3% a month. Employees pay PAYE each month, due by the 15th of the next month. The YEA's 12-month apprenticeship with a certified master is one route to self-employment. Whether an apprentice counts as a "worker" for SSNIT and the minimum wage was not verified: ask the Labour Department. This is not legal advice.

Insurance, marketing and safety

Ghana's law is reported to require commercial property to be insured, but section numbers were not verified. Get three written quotes from NIC-licensed insurers. Keep your Unit 3 safety audit and fire certificate on the wall. To market yourself:

  • WhatsApp Business is a free app with a profile, a catalogue of styles and prices, labels for customers such as "waiting for fitting", and quick replies.
  • Google Business Profile is a free listing showing your name, address, hours, photos and reviews on Search and Maps.
  • A sign, a portfolio and referrals. Small Ghanaian fashion firms market mainly through WhatsApp, Instagram and Facebook. Show your Made in Ghana licence once you hold it, and your fire certificate.

Accessibility

Ghana's Persons with Disability Act, 2006 (Act 715) requires people who serve the public to make their services accessible. The Assemblies' disability fund rose to 5%, the Sekondi-Takoradi Assembly has given industrial sewing machines to persons with disabilities, and the Ghana Enterprises Agency has run a grant programme for businesses owned by persons with disabilities. Deaf machinists already work in factories. Hand-controlled industrial machines exist for wheelchair users, and inclusive design guidance asks for doors about 91 cm wide and turning space for wheelchairs. In your plan: a step-free door, a seated cutting table at wheelchair height, hand-controlled machines on request, picture and sign instructions, a visual fire alarm and a clear walkway.

The one-page business plan

  • Who I am and my legal form
  • Services and customers: tailoring, alterations, uniforms, bridal, CMT; three customers I have spoken to
  • Prices: a price list (Unit 1 and Unit 2 costings)
  • Rules: registrations done and still to do
  • Workshop: site, layout, equipment, safety
  • Money: start-up budget, funding, 12-month cash forecast (Unit 7)
  • People: staff, apprentices, pay
  • Risks and how I reduce them: late payments, power cuts, a stopped machine, a slow month

Register and pitch

  1. Complete a registration checklist with the body, cost and date for your own business.
  2. Build your start-up budget and funding plan.
  3. Write the one-page plan and pitch it in two minutes to a classmate acting as a lender.
  4. Set up a WhatsApp Business profile with a catalogue and a draft Google Business Profile.

Three visits

Visit or phone the ORC (or the ORC portal), the STMA revenue office and the Ghana Enterprises Agency business advisory centre. Write down one thing you did not know.

07

Unit 6 · Bookkeeping and accounts for a tailor or workshop

A sewing business that sells but is not recorded is a hobby with a sewing machine. Books turn it into a business you can borrow against.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
6.1 Keep the daily records keeps an order book, cash book, receipts, invoices, petty cash and a customer-cloth log
6.2 Account for deposits, work in progress and stock records deposits as a liability, counts fabric and trim stock and values work in progress
6.3 Manage debtors and creditors tracks who owes you and whom you owe, and ages the debts
6.4 Produce statements draws a monthly profit and loss and a simple balance sheet and checks they balance
6.5 Price, break even and depreciate prices by margin, finds break-even and charges straight-line depreciation
6.6 Close the month and keep tax records reconciles cash and MoMo, runs the month-end routine and files tax records

Range. One month of sample records and one week or month of the trainee's own. Evidence. Order book; cash book; stock sheet; debtors list; profit and loss; balance sheet; reconciliation.

See the hub's Money Skills Level 2 for the basics of cash books, profit and loss and balance sheets. This unit applies them to a tailor or workshop.

The daily set of records

  • Order book: one line per order: number, date, customer and phone, item, measurement card number, whether the cloth is the customer's, price, deposit, balance, fitting dates, date promised, date delivered, paid or not
  • Customer-cloth log: the metres and description of every piece of cloth left with you, with a photo and a signature; it is not your stock
  • Cash book: every sale and cost the same day, cash and MoMo separately
  • Receipts and invoices: numbered, copy kept; a receipt shows date, items, amount, seller
  • Petty cash: a small fixed float, a voucher for each use, topped up to the float
  • Stock records: your fabric, thread, zips, buttons and interfacing: bought, used, left
  • Debtors and creditors lists: who owes you; whom you owe
  • Owner and business money kept apart: pay yourself a fixed wage

An income statement (profit and loss) shows sales minus the cost of goods sold, giving gross profit, then other costs, giving net profit. A balance sheet shows assets equal to liabilities plus equity. Working capital is current assets minus current liabilities. A trial-style check is that the two sides of the balance sheet match, which is a partial check, because a double error can still balance.

Deposits, work in progress and fabric stock

Deposits are not income yet. Money a customer pays before delivery stays on the balance sheet as a liability, a customer deposit, because you owe the customer the garment or a refund; when you deliver, you move it out of the liability and into income. A common mistake is booking the deposit straight to income and then discounting the final invoice, which hides the true price and makes the job's profit hard to read.

Work in progress (WIP) is the cost of cloth and trims you have bought and put into jobs that are not yet delivered. It is an asset until the job is delivered, and then it becomes cost of sales (a simple method for a small shop, using only materials; the author's choice).

Fabric and trim stock is cloth you own and have not yet put into a job. Count it each month: expected stock = opening + bought − issued to jobs.

Customer-supplied cloth is never stock or WIP, because you do not own it. It goes in the customer-cloth log. Only your sewing charge is income.

A month for Adwoa's Tailoring (example numbers)

Adwoa has a shop with two sewers, an apprentice and herself. Everything below is invented to practise.

At 1 March. Cash and MoMo 4,000; fabric and trim stock 1,500; work in progress 3,600 (cloth and trims for 60 school uniform sets); equipment at cost 18,000 less 3,600 depreciation so far, now 14,400. She owes a cloth supplier 500 and holds a deposit of 3,150 from the school (half of its 6,300 order). Owner's capital and profits kept 19,850.

During March.

  • She sews 18 kaba and slit from customer cloth at a sewing charge of 150: 2,700.
  • She does 40 alterations at 20: 800.
  • She sews 2 men's suits from customer cloth at a sewing charge of 900: 1,800.
  • She delivers all 60 school sets at 105: 6,300. The school's deposit of 3,150 is used, and the school will pay the other 3,150 later.
  • She takes new deposits: 2,500 from a church choir (a 5,000 order for 40 shirts) and 1,200 from a wedding customer (a 2,400 sewing charge). She buys 1,600 of cloth and trims for the choir shirts and puts it into work in progress.
  • She buys and uses 600 of thread, lining, interfacing and buttons for the kaba and suits.
  • She pays the 500 owed to the supplier.
Profit and loss for March GH¢
Kaba and slit (18 × 150) 2,700
Alterations (40 × 20) 800
Suits (2 × 900) 1,800
School uniforms (60 × 105) 6,300
Sales 11,600
Uniform cloth and trims taken from work in progress (60 × 60) 3,600
Thread, lining, interfacing, buttons 600
Cost of sales 4,200
Gross profit (63.8% of sales) 7,400
Sewers' wages (2 × 700) 1,400
Apprentice's allowance 300
SSNIT, employer's 13% of 1,400 182
Rent 600
Power 350
Transport 250
Phone and data 100
Needles and repairs 150
Depreciation (18,000 ÷ 5 years ÷ 12) 300
Assembly permit and ORC renewal, set aside (260 ÷ 12) 22
Total other costs 3,654
Net profit before owner's wage 3,746
Owner's wage taken 1,500
Profit kept in the business 2,246

The depreciation is straight line: cost minus scrap value, divided by years of use. The employer's 13% is the SSNIT rate. The permit and renewal figures use the Assembly fee for a large non-industrial tailor and the business-name renewal.

Cash book for March GH¢
Opening cash and MoMo 4,000
In: kaba, alterations and suits paid on collection (2,700 + 800 + 1,800) 5,300
In: new deposits (2,500 + 1,200) 3,700
Total in 9,000
Out: supplier paid 500
Out: cloth and trims for the choir shirts 1,600
Out: thread, lining, interfacing, buttons 600
Out: wages 1,400 and apprentice 300 1,700
Out: rent 600, power 350, transport 250, data 100, needles and repairs 150 1,450
Out: owner's wage 1,500
Total out 7,350
Closing cash and MoMo (4,000 + 9,000 − 7,350) 5,650

SSNIT of 182 and the permit set-aside of 22 were not paid in March, so they are owed at the month end.

Balance sheet at 31 March GH¢ GH¢
Cash and MoMo 5,650 Customer deposits (choir 2,500, wedding 1,200) 3,700
Debtors (school balance) 3,150 SSNIT and fees owed 204
Fabric and trim stock 1,500 Owner's capital and profits at start 19,850
Work in progress (choir shirts 1,600) 1,600 Profit kept in March 2,246
Equipment 14,400 less 300 14,100
Total assets 26,000 Total liabilities and equity 26,000

The two sides match: the trial-style check. If they differ, look for an entry recorded once, in the wrong column or not at all.

Why did profit kept (2,246) not equal the rise in cash (1,650)? Bridge: profit kept 2,246, plus depreciation 300 (not a cash cost), plus deposits received net of the school's deposit used (3,700 − 3,150 = 550), plus SSNIT and fees unpaid 204, minus the supplier paid 500, minus the school still owing 3,150, plus work in progress released (3,600 − 1,600 = 2,000) = 1,650. Profit is not cash. Adwoa made a good profit and still has GH¢3,150 owed by a school.

Debtors, creditors and stock

Age your debtors by days owed, and chase the oldest. Count fabric stock every month.

Stock and debtors (example)

(1) Fabric stock: opening 120 m, bought 300 m, issued to cutting 360 m, and a count finds 52 m. How many metres are missing, and what is the loss at GH¢25 a metre? (2) Debtors: a school owes GH¢3,150 for 45 days, a church choir GH¢1,800 for 12 days and a boutique GH¢900 for 75 days. Group the debts into 0–30, 31–60 and over 60 days and say whom you chase first.

Deposits, cloth and a cancelled order (example)

A bride leaves 6 m of silk (the customer says it cost GH¢1,500) and pays a GH¢1,200 deposit on a GH¢2,400 sewing charge. (1) Where do you record the silk? (2) Where do you record the GH¢1,200 on the day it is paid? (3) When does it become income? (4) The bride cancels after you cut the silk. What should your contract say, and what do you do with the silk?

One month of a small tailor (example)

Esi sews 14 kaba and slit at a sewing charge of GH¢150 and does 30 alterations at GH¢20. Thread, zips and lining for these cost GH¢420. Rent GH¢400, power GH¢180, transport GH¢120, data GH¢60. Her sewing machines cost GH¢9,000 with no scrap value and last 5 years. She took GH¢800. Find: (1) sales; (2) gross profit and gross margin; (3) depreciation per month; (4) net profit before her wage; (5) profit kept; (6) break-even sales if her costs of 400 + 180 + 120 + 60 + depreciation + her wage are fixed.

Pay staff correctly: PAYE and SSNIT (worked example)

Deduct SSNIT first. The PAYE monthly bands for 2026 are: the first GH¢588 at 0%, the next 80 at 5%, the next 100 at 10%, the next 2,900 at 17.5%, the next 16,000 at 25%, the next 30,332 at 30%, and above 50,000 at 35%. The GRA page says the annual table took effect on 1 September 2026, so confirm the bands before you run payroll.

A sewer on GH¢700 basic (the March example): employee SSNIT 5.5% = 38.50; taxable pay 661.50; PAYE = 588 at 0% = 0, plus 73.50 at 5% = 3.68; net pay = 700 − 38.50 − 3.68 = GH¢657.82; employer SSNIT 13% = 91.00; total cost to Adwoa = 791.

Payroll for a machinist on GH¢900 (example)

Work out: (1) employee SSNIT; (2) taxable pay; (3) PAYE; (4) net pay; (5) employer SSNIT; (6) the total cost of employing her. (7) By which dates must PAYE and SSNIT be paid?

Pricing: margin and mark-up, and break-even

Margin is profit as a share of the price; mark-up is profit as a share of cost. At a uniform cost of GH¢84.17 and a price of GH¢105 the profit is GH¢20.83, a margin of 19.8% and a mark-up of 24.7% (author's arithmetic). Break-even sales = fixed costs ÷ gross margin. In the March example, if Adwoa treats all other costs and her own wage as fixed, they are 3,654 + 1,500 = 5,154. Her gross margin is 63.8%, so break-even is 5,154 ÷ 0.638 = about GH¢8,080 of sales a month, assuming the mix of work stays the same. March sales of 11,600 are above that.

Reconcile MoMo, and price by margin

(1) Your cash book says the MoMo balance is GH¢2,340. The MoMo statement says GH¢2,410. A customer paid GH¢100 that is not in the book, and the network took a GH¢30 charge you did not record. Show that the books and statement now agree. (2) A school uniform costs GH¢84.17. What price gives a 30% margin on price? What price gives a 30% mark-up on cost, and what is its real margin?

Depreciation (example)

(1) A used industrial lockstitch machine cost GH¢3,700 and you expect to sell it for scrap at GH¢500 after 5 years. What is the depreciation per year and per month? (2) An overlocker cost GH¢4,500, scrap GH¢300, life 6 years. Per month?

Month-end routine

  1. Count the cash box and check MoMo and bank balances against statements; reconcile
  2. Add the cash book; carry the closing cash forward
  3. Count fabric and trim stock; value work in progress; check the customer-cloth log against cloth on the shelf
  4. List debtors and creditors; chase the oldest; move customer deposits to income for orders delivered
  5. Draw up the profit and loss and balance sheet; check the two sides match
  6. Pay yourself your set wage; set aside the monthly share of yearly fees and tools
  7. File receipts, invoices, SSNIT and tax papers in one folder; back up your phone's order book

Tax records and the filing calendar

Keep records in Ghana for at least six years from the end of the year of assessment or VAT period, and longer if under dispute. Under the Modified Taxation Scheme, Adwoa's example turnover of 11,600 × 12 = GH¢139,200 (ignoring seasonal changes) falls in the GH¢20,001–750,000 band, so 3% of turnover is GH¢4,176 a year. Her goods turnover is far below the GH¢750,000 VAT threshold for goods. Withholding tax of 3% on goods, 5% on works and 7.5% on services applies when certain public and larger buyers pay you, and rent has its own rate; ask your buyer and GRA.

When What
14 days after month end SSNIT contributions
15th of next month PAYE and withholding tax
Last working day of next month VAT return, if registered
End Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec Provisional tax for companies
31 March Assembly permit
Yearly ORC renewal or annual return; annual tax return within four months after year end

From 1 January 2027 the 2025 edition of IFRS for SMEs applies where it is used. A small tailor does not need it, but a company keeps books a lender and an accountant can read. Free tools can help: a spreadsheet, Zoho Books' free plan with its limits or Wave's free starter plan. Start with paper if software scares you: a book you use is better than software you do not.

Close a month

  1. Use the March example: rebuild the cash book, profit and loss and balance sheet and check the two sides match.
  2. Start an order book and a customer-cloth log for a week of real or practice orders.
  3. Reconcile a MoMo statement, count some stock and age a debtors list.
  4. Run a payroll for one machinist and find the filing dates.

Keep a week

Keep an order book, a cash book and a stock sheet for a week of real or practice work. Bring them.

08

Unit 7 · Grow, sustain and present your plan

Starting is one skill. Staying alive and growing is another. A plan you can show a panel and a lender is the proof.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
7.1 Build a quality system writes procedures, audits itself and fixes causes
7.2 Price and serve sets price tiers, discount rules and handles complaints
7.3 Scale and partner plans growth, contracts, tenders and subcontracting
7.4 Prepare for loans and succession keeps records a lender trusts and names a successor
7.5 Forecast builds a 12-month cash-flow forecast with a slow and a busy month
7.6 Present presents a one-page plan with the forecast to a panel

Range. The trainee's own business plan. Evidence. Quality procedures; price sheet; growth plan; business plan and forecast; panel score sheet.

A simple quality system

Use Unit 3 as a base. For a small workshop:

  • A one-page procedure for each key job: cutting, sewing a main operation, pressing, inspection, packing, machine cleaning
  • A monthly self-audit using your Unit 3 checklists; ask a worker who does not run that area to check it
  • A corrective action for every fault: fix it, find the cause, change the procedure
  • A complaint book: date, customer, problem, what you did, how long it took
  • A machine log and a spare box (Unit 3)

Customer care and pricing strategy

Tailors' leaders told artisans to plan their time to avoid disappointing customers, because being on time builds trust, referrals and repeat business. Answer messages quickly, deliver on the promised day, and tell the customer early if something will be late. Use price tiers: retail, group or wholesale, and institution; an express charge for rush orders (Level 1); and a written discount rule. Compete on fit, finish and reliability, not only on price.

The 10% discount (example)

A school asks for 10% off the GH¢105 uniform set, which costs you GH¢84.17. (1) Profit per set before and after the discount? (2) How many times the original volume must you sell to earn the same total profit?

Scale, partners, contracts and tenders

Grow from within. Add one product or one new buyer at a time. Level 1's YEA programmes and the J-PAL study both warn that new tailors often lack capital, so grow when cash allows.

Second shift. The Labour Act allows shifts if there is an established timetable and the average hours over four weeks or less do not exceed 8 a day or 40 a week. Plan overtime pay (Unit 3).

Partners. The Ghana National Tailors and Dressmakers Association trains and speaks for artisans. Manufacturers' voice on public procurement comes from the Association of Ghana Apparel Manufacturers. Work with designers under written agreements (Unit 4), and subcontract to larger factories when you have a quality system and the cash to wait.

Contracts and tenders. A buyer contract states style, cloth, sizes, price, deposit and stage payments, delivery, and what happens if the order changes or the buyer pays late (Level 2). Have a lawyer read large contracts. Register with the Public Procurement Authority for government work, and test the cash flow before you bid (Unit 4). The Government says it is cracking down on illegal imports of fake and pirated textile products: never copy a brand's label.

Records for loans, succession and ethics

A lender wants: your registration papers, 12 months of cash book, profit and loss, balance sheet, bank or MoMo statements, a cash-flow forecast, and a clear use for the money (see Money Skills Level 2). Name a successor who knows your customers, patterns, supplier list and passwords, and keep the master patterns and grade sheets in a safe place. Ethics: label cloth honestly (never sell printed cloth as Kente); never print a licence or Made in Ghana mark you do not hold; pay staff on time and obey the Labour Act; report accidents; and never copy a customer's design for someone else without permission.

Your 12-month cash-flow forecast (example)

A cash forecast has opening cash, money in, money out and closing cash for each month. The example below is for a shop like Adwoa's. Money in follows the seasons: slow after Christmas and in mid-year, busy at school reopening and Christmas. Money out is 35% of money in (cloth, trims and thread) plus fixed cash costs of GH¢4,832 a month (wages 1,400, apprentice 300, SSNIT 182, rent 600, power 350, transport 250, data 100, needles and repairs 150 and the owner's wage 1,500). Depreciation is not a cash cost, so it is left out. In February the ORC renewal of 70 is added and in March the Assembly permit of 190. In August, September and December, 1,200 is added each month for casual helpers. All figures are examples.

Month Opening In Out Closing
Jan 5,000 7,000 7,282 4,718
Feb 4,718 6,500 7,177 4,041
Mar 4,041 6,500 7,297 3,244
Apr 3,244 6,000 6,932 2,312
May 2,312 8,000 7,632 2,680
Jun 2,680 6,500 7,107 2,073
Jul 2,073 6,000 6,932 1,141
Aug 1,141 12,000 10,232 2,909
Sep 2,909 16,000 11,632 7,277
Oct 7,277 9,000 7,982 8,295
Nov 8,295 11,000 8,682 10,613
Dec 10,613 17,000 11,982 15,631

Cash is lowest at the end of July, GH¢1,141, just before the school-reopening rush. That is the risk month: do not buy anything large then, and ask school customers for a deposit.

A new overlocker (example)

In June Adwoa buys a GH¢4,500 overlocker for cash. Using the table, what happens to the closing cash from June to September? What would you advise?

Capstone: present to a panel

You present a complete one-page business plan (Unit 5) with your 12-month cash forecast, price list, registration checklist, quality plan and an export or tender readiness note, in 8 minutes, then answer questions for 7.

Criterion Marks
Services, customers and prices make sense, with costings from Unit 1 and Unit 2 15
Registration and rules complete and honest 15
Safe workshop, staff and quality system 15
Start-up budget and funding add up 15
12-month cash forecast correct, risk month named 20
Growth, contracts and records for a lender 10
Clear delivery and answers to questions 10
Total 100

Present your plan

  1. Build your own 12-month forecast with a slow month and a busy month; find the lowest cash month.
  2. Write the one-page plan and rehearse the 8-minute talk.
  3. Present to the panel and answer questions.

Ask a customer

Ask three possible buyers (a school head, a church leader, a shop owner) what would make them change tailor. Add their answers to your plan.

09

Glossary

Term Meaning
AQL Acceptable quality limit: the most defects in a sample that still lets a lot pass
Balance sheet A list of assets, liabilities and equity at one date, where assets equal liabilities plus equity
Bottleneck The slowest step on a line, which sets the speed of the whole line
Bundle ticket A card tied to a bundle showing style, size, lot and operations
CMT Cut, make and trim: you are paid to sew cloth that someone else supplies
Competent / Not Yet Competent The two possible results of a CBT assessment
Customer deposit Money received before delivery; a liability until the work is delivered
Debtor A person who owes you money
Depreciation The share of a machine's cost charged as a cost each year
Grade rule The amount a point on a pattern moves from one size to the next
Landed cost The full cost of cloth delivered to your shop, including freight, duty and clearing
Marker The layout of all the pattern pieces for a set of sizes on the cloth
Pitch time Total SAM divided by the number of operators
SAM Standard allowed minute: the time allowed for an operation
Tolerance How far a measurement may differ from the chart and still pass
Work in progress (WIP) Cloth and trims put into jobs not yet delivered
10

Logbook

Copy these pages into an exercise book. Your logbook is part of your assessment evidence.

  • Unit 1: timing sheets; balance sheet; WIP chart; CMT cost and quote
  • Unit 2: grade sheet; size chart; marker and cloth sums; suit and bridal photos; fitting records
  • Unit 3: fault log; machine log; inspection records; safety audit; supervision plan
  • Unit 4: supplier quotes; shrinkage test; landed-cost sheet; tender cash-flow; designer agreement; export checklist
  • Unit 5: registration checklist; start-up budget; funding plan; one-page plan
  • Unit 6: order book; customer-cloth log; cash book; stock sheet; debtors list; profit and loss; balance sheet; payroll
  • Unit 7: quality procedures; price sheet; 12-month forecast; panel score sheet
  • Every homework, dated
11

Self-check quiz

  1. What is the bottleneck on a production line?
  2. If the total SAM of a shirt is 7.0 and you have 10 operators, what is the pitch time?
  3. Why can a garment with 12 SAM of sewing take a week to get through a factory?
  4. What three things do you check first when a machine skips stitches?
  5. Why is printing a pattern at 105% not a correct way to make a bigger size?
  6. What are the three classes of defect, and which has no tolerance?
  7. For a lot of 3,500 pieces, how many pieces do you sample, and how many major defects can you accept at AQL 2.5?
  8. What is the employer's duty on health and safety in the Labour Act, and within how many days must an accident be reported?
  9. What does landed cost include besides the invoice price?
  10. What did Ghana's AGOA status look like in 2026, and what must you check before signing a multi-year export contract?
  11. Why is a customer's deposit a liability and not income?
  12. Which month in the example forecast had the lowest cash, and why does it matter?
12

Further reading and sources

Best next reads: the YEA garment handbook; the Labour Act 2003; GRA's pages on modified taxation, VAT and PAYE; the ORC fees page; the HSE page on sewing machines; your machine maker's manual; Money Skills Level 2 and Entrepreneurial Thinking Level 2 in this hub.

What this module does not cover: computer pattern making (CAD) and automated cutting, knitwear and embroidery machines, large-factory management beyond the basics, customs tariff rates for fabric (not verified; ECOWAS bands only), AGOA beyond 31 December 2028, the AfCFTA textile rules of origin (not verified), current Takoradi fabric and sewing prices (check locally), the CTVET Fashion Design Technology unit list (not found online), and payroll tax beyond the basics. It is not legal, tax or financial advice.

Every source used in this manual is listed, with links, in the Teacher Copy.

One application of the Cold-Start Learning Kit, which stays general-purpose and can build a guide on any topic in any field. Written in CTVET format; not a CTVET curriculum.