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Training module · National Proficiency I · CTVET formatTrainee Manual

Motorbike and Tricycle Servicing

Work safely, read the manual, service the bike step by step, find simple faults in order, and keep riders on the road. Learn the skills that okada and tricycle owners pay for every week.

Servicing a motorbike and a tricycle A roadside workshop. A mechanic in overalls kneels beside a motorbike raised on a stand and checks the chain with a spanner. A tool tray holds spanners, a screwdriver and a tyre pressure gauge, and a helmet rests on a stool. On the right a cargo tricycle with a loaded box waits its turn, and an oil drain pan sits on the ground. CHECK · OIL · CHAIN · BRAKES · TYRES
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Prepared by De-Graft Afful · Version 1.0.0 · October 2026
01

About this module

A motorbike or tricycle that is serviced on time starts easily, stops safely and earns money for its owner. A mechanic who works carefully earns the owner's trust.

Who it is for. Beginners with no formal certificate, including school leavers, apprentices and persons with disabilities. National Proficiency I is the first level of Ghana's TVET framework.

Why this trade

  • Parliament passed the Road Traffic (Amendment) Bill on 11 December 2025 to allow commercial use of motorcycles (okada), tricycles (pragya) and quadricycles, with protective gear required. More legal riders may mean more bikes that need roadworthy repairs. This is a reasonable expectation, not a promise.
  • Honda Ghana notes that many riders rely on low-cost roadside mechanics, who may use low-quality replacement parts. A careful mechanic who uses good parts and explains the work stands out.
  • The National Apprenticeship Programme lists "Motor Bike Repair" among its mechanical and electrical trades. How long it lasts and how to apply were not on the page; ask the National Youth Authority.
  • A study of auto-rickshaw mechanics in Kumasi found many worked without licensed garages and learned by apprenticeship. A proper certificate and a clean record of your work help you stand out.

CTVET status. The CTVET programme name for motorbike mechanics could not be confirmed. This module is not a CTVET curriculum. It follows CTVET's format. The closest CTVET fit is a small engines or auto mechanic programme; the exact name is not verified.

Read this first: the manual for YOUR bike. Most bikes in Ghana are carburettor bikes of 100 to 200 cc from makers such as Apsonic, Haojue, Sonlink, Zongshen, Luojia and Honda. Many are copies of the Honda CB125. This book teaches the method. Where it gives numbers, they come from the Honda CBF125M owner's manual and are examples only. Your bike's numbers (chain slack, plug gap, oil grade, tyre pressure) may be different. Always look them up in the owner's manual or ask the dealer. If you cannot find a figure, write "not known" and do not guess.

How the module works

Each unit has learning outcomes, performance criteria, the range and the evidence your assessor needs. You are judged Competent or Not Yet Competent. About 70% of the time is practical.

Steps marked (workshop practice) are standard good practice taught in workshops. No single document read for this module confirmed them, so check them against your bike's manual.

02

Unit 1 · Workshop safety

A workshop is a place where petrol, hot metal, oil and moving parts meet. Most accidents are easy to prevent.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
1.1 Prepare a safe workspace sets up the bike on a stand on firm level ground, in fresh air, away from flames
1.2 Handle fuel, oil and heat safely handles petrol, hot parts, used oil and batteries without spills, burns or fire
1.3 Use protective gear and manage waste wears the right gear; stores and disposes of waste oil, old batteries and rags correctly

Range. The training workshop and one training bike. Evidence. Safety checklist; oral questions; observation.

Rules from the maker's manual

Honda's manual gives these rules before any maintenance task:

  1. Read the maintenance instructions first. Make sure you have the tools, parts and skills.
  2. Stop the engine and take out the key.
  3. Put the bike on a firm, level surface, on the side stand, centre stand or a maintenance stand.
  4. Let the engine, silencer (muffler), brakes and other hot parts cool. They can burn you.
  5. Run the engine only when the steps say so, and only in a well-ventilated place.
  6. Keep oil and grease off brakes and tyres. Oil on discs, pads, drums or shoes greatly reduces braking and can cause a crash.

Carbon monoxide

Exhaust smoke contains carbon monoxide, a gas with no colour and no smell that can make you unconscious and kill you. Never run an engine in a closed or partly closed room. Petrol engine exhaust can contain up to 10% carbon monoxide, so take the fumes outside.

Petrol and fire

  • Petrol vapour is heavier than air, collects low down and catches fire easily, even at low temperatures.
  • Sources of fire include smoking, matches, welding and cutting, heaters and ordinary electrical equipment. Pouring petrol into a container can make a static spark.
  • Good practice from a workshop example: empty fuel tanks outside the workshop, clear spills at once, no smoking in work areas, have extinguishers that are checked, and train workers to use them.

Safety gate: no fuel leaks in a closed room. If a bike is leaking petrol, push it outside, away from flames and people. Do not work on it indoors and do not start it. Ghana's workshop safety and fire-permit rules for garages are not verified; ask the Ghana National Fire Service and the Assembly.

Hot parts, noise and moving parts

  • The silencer, engine, and brake drums stay hot for a long time after a ride. Wait until they are cool to touch with the back of your hand held close (workshop practice).
  • Noisy engines damage hearing slowly. Run engines only when needed, for short times, outside, and wear ear plugs if you must stay close (workshop practice).
  • Never put fingers near a running chain, belt or fan. Tie back long hair and loose clothes (workshop practice).

Used oil and waste

  • Used engine oil can cause skin disease (dermatitis). Wear nitrile gloves and wash overalls often.
  • Oil spills are a slip hazard. Cover them with sand or oil absorbent and sweep up at once.
  • Used oil, petrol and solvents are poisons. Put them in approved containers. Do not put used oil in the rubbish, down a drain or on the ground. Akwidaa and Takoradi are coastal, so oil that reaches a drain can reach the sea (workshop practice).
  • Course rule until the law is confirmed: collect used oil in a closed, labelled container; keep it away from children, drains and fire; hand it only to someone who can show an Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) permit (workshop practice).
  • Ghana's Environmental Protection Act, 2025 (Act 1124) took over the environmental law in January 2025, and the EPA can close premises that pollute. Whether a small garage needs an EPA permit for used oil, and where to hand in used oil in the Western Region, is not verified. Ask the EPA Western Regional office in Takoradi.
  • Do not use old engine oil on chains or on weeds. This book does not teach it.
  • A battery must not go in household rubbish. Give old batteries to a battery dealer or recycler.

Protective gear

  • Overalls or close-fitting work clothes, and closed shoes (safety boots if possible)
  • Nitrile gloves for oil and fuel; cut-resistant gloves for sharp metal
  • Safety glasses when cleaning with a brush or working near a battery
  • A face shield or glasses and gloves for battery work
  • Ear plugs when an engine must run
  • A helmet for any road test (see Unit 7)

Battery danger

A battery gives off explosive hydrogen gas. Keep sparks and flames away. If acid gets in your eyes, wash with cool water for at least 15 minutes and see a doctor.

Before you start every job

  1. Read what the manual says for this job.
  2. Check you have all tools and parts.
  3. Move the bike to a firm, level place with fresh air.
  4. Put it on the stand, engine off, key out.
  5. Wait for hot parts to cool.
  6. Put on your gloves and glasses.
  7. Keep a rag, a drain pan and an extinguisher within reach.

Safe workshop walk-through

  1. Walk round the workshop with the trainer and mark every hazard on a plan: fuel, flames, oil, hot parts, loose wires, blocked exits.
  2. Practise setting a bike on its centre stand and the side stand on level ground. Test it will not roll by pushing gently.
  3. Practise putting out a small oil fire with the extinguisher or a fire blanket under the trainer's eyes.
  4. Pour used oil from a drain pan into a labelled container with a funnel, without a drop on the floor.
  5. Fill in a daily safety checklist (the trainer will give you a copy).

Safety poster

Draw a poster of five workshop rules for your wall. Look at one real workshop near you and write down two hazards and two good habits you see.

Check yourself 1

  1. Why must you let the engine and silencer cool before working?
  2. Why must you never run an engine in a closed room?
  3. Where must used engine oil go?
03

Unit 2 · Know your motorbike: parts and tools

You cannot fix what you cannot name. Learn the parts, then learn the tools that fit them.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
2.1 Name the main parts names and points to the main parts of a motorbike and a cargo tricycle
2.2 Explain how the engine runs explains in simple words how fuel, air and spark make the engine run
2.3 Choose and use tools chooses the right tool for a job, uses it correctly and keeps it clean
2.4 Find the maker's information finds service figures in the owner's manual or from the dealer

Range. One training motorbike and one tricycle. Evidence. Parts naming test; tool identification; observation.

The main parts

(Workshop practice: these are the standard parts of a small four-stroke motorbike.)

Group Parts What they do
Engine Cylinder and piston, spark plug, valves, crankcase Burns fuel and air to make power
Fuel Tank, fuel tap, carburettor, air filter Mixes fuel and air and cleans the air
Ignition and charging Ignition coil, magneto or stator, regulator-rectifier, battery Makes the spark and charges the battery
Drive Clutch, gearbox, chain, front and rear sprockets Carries power to the rear wheel
Chassis Frame, forks, swing-arm, shock absorbers Holds everything and softens bumps
Wheels Rims, spokes or cast wheel, tyres, tubes, hubs, bearings Carry the bike
Brakes Lever, cable or fluid line, drum and shoes or disc and pads Slow and stop the bike
Controls and lights Throttle, clutch lever, switches, headlight, indicators, horn Let you control the bike and be seen

How the engine runs (the simple picture)

An engine needs three things at the right moment: fuel, air and a spark, and it needs compression, which is the fuel and air squeezed in a small space. Fuel and air go in. The piston squeezes them. The spark lights them. The burning pushes the piston down. Then the burnt gas goes out through the exhaust. A four-stroke engine does this in four steps. If any one of fuel, air, spark or compression is missing, the engine will not run well. Unit 5 uses this idea to find faults.

Carburettor and injection

  • A carburettor has a float chamber that holds fuel, a main jet, an idle jet, an idle mixture screw, a choke and a throttle. Air rushing through it draws the fuel.
  • If the choke is left on after the engine is warm, the mixture is too rich and the engine runs roughly.
  • An injected bike, such as the Honda CBF125M example, has no choke and no jets. A warning lamp shows faults, and the manual says to see the dealer when it is on. On an injected bike you check the basics (fuel, battery, fuses, switches) and then refer the bike to the dealer.
  • The share of injected bikes in Ghana is not verified. Most trainees will meet carburettor bikes at first.

Cargo tricycle extras

  • A cargo tricycle (aboboyaa, pragya) normally has a bike-type engine and a rear axle with two wheels. Models differ, so ask the dealer (not verified per model).
  • A loaded motorbike or tricycle needs a longer braking distance. A heavy load raises the centre of gravity and can make it unstable and likely to overturn.
  • The TVS King three-wheeler schedule shows what to look at on a tuk-tuk: differential oil check and top-up, engine oil, brake fluid, tyre pressure, air filter, brake shoes, steering friction plate, fuel strainer and battery terminals. That is a passenger rickshaw with a differential. Ghana's cargo tricycles may be built differently, so use it as a checklist idea, not a spec.
  • The oil grade, amount and service interval for tricycle differentials or axle drives are not found. Ask the dealer and write the answer in your logbook.
  • Maximum loads: the Honda motorcycle example allows 170 kg including rider, passenger and luggage. For tricycles, the payload is on the maker's plate or in the manual; figures for common Ghana models are not verified.
  • The Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority (DVLA) has said that over 90% of aboboyaa in Accra run without side mirrors. Check mirrors on every tricycle you service.

Where to find your bike's figures

  1. Look for the owner's manual that came with the bike. Keep a photo of the service table on your phone.
  2. Ask the dealer for a printed service sheet for that model and year.
  3. Do not trust "free workshop manual" PDF sites: they may carry viruses. Paid manuals exist for popular models, for example Haynes for the CG125.
  4. Write the figures you find on a bike data card (see the practical below) and keep it with the job card.

Tools and materials

Tool Use Local note
Open and ring spanners, 8 to 24 mm Most nuts and bolts Buy a good set; poor spanners round off bolts
Socket set with ratchet Fast, firm grip on bolts
Plug spanner Spark plug The bike's own tool kit often has one
Screwdrivers (flat and cross-head) Screws on covers, carburettor
Pliers, long-nose pliers Cotter pins, clips
Tyre levers (2 or 3) Take tyre off the rim
Tyre pressure gauge Check pressure (kPa or psi)
Foot pump or hand pump Inflate tyres
Wire or round gap gauge Spark plug gap
Drain pan and funnel Oil changes
Wire brush, rags Cleaning Use cotton rags
Multimeter Battery and fuse tests
Vulcanising solution, patches, sandpaper Tube repair Sold where tyre repairers (vulcanizers) buy

The Honda factory kit has only a 14 x 17 mm spanner, a plug spanner, two screwdrivers and a pin spanner, which shows how little a roadside repair may need.

Where to buy. Spare parts shops in Takoradi and other towns, and the spare parts markets such as Abossey Okai in Accra, which the Ghana Standards Authority names as a main parts market. Prices of tools and parts in Takoradi are not verified; visit three shops and write the price on your list.

Genuine parts. Honda warns that non-genuine parts can make the bike unsafe. Substandard and counterfeit helmets are also sold in Ghana. Buy from sellers you know, keep the receipt, and show the customer the old part.

Tool care

  1. Wipe tools clean after the job.
  2. Put each tool back in its place on the tray or board.
  3. Count your tools at the end of each day.
  4. Use the correct size. A spanner that is too big will round off a bolt.
  5. Pull a spanner towards you; do not push it where your hand can hit a sharp edge.

Parts hunt and bike data card

  1. Stand beside a bike with the trainer. Touch and name each part in the table above.
  2. Find on the bike: the engine number, the frame (chassis) number, the plug cap, the air filter box, the oil filler cap, the chain, both brakes, the battery and the fuse box.
  3. On a bike data card write: make, model, year, tyre sizes, chain details, plug type, oil grade and amount, and tyre pressures. Fill in every figure you can find in the manual, and write "not known" for the rest.
  4. Lay out the tools for an oil change and a plug change. Say what each one is for.

Dealer visit

Visit one parts shop or dealer. Find out: the price of a spark plug, an air filter and 1 litre of the right engine oil for one named bike. Write the shop name and date. Ask how to know a genuine part from a copy.

Check yourself 2

  1. Name the three things an engine needs at the right time, and one more thing it needs inside the cylinder.
  2. Where do you find the right service figures for a bike?
  3. Why is a spanner that is too big a bad choice?
04

Unit 3 · Routine service step by step

A bike that is serviced on time rarely breaks down. Do the same steps, in the same order, every time.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
3.1 Do a daily check completes the pre-ride check in the right order and records findings
3.2 Change oil and clean the air filter changes engine oil and cleans or replaces the air filter correctly
3.3 Service the spark plug removes, reads, gaps and refits a plug
3.4 Service the chain and sprockets checks, adjusts and lubricates the chain and checks sprockets
3.5 Check and adjust the brakes checks pads, shoes, free play, brake light and fluid level and says when to refer
3.6 Check tyre pressure measures and sets pressure with a gauge when cold

Range. One carburettor bike (and one injected bike for checks only), one tricycle for the checks. Evidence. Completed service sheet; observation; oral questions.

Servicing rules

  • Use the service schedule in your bike's manual. The Honda example lists the fuel line, throttle, air cleaner, plug, valve clearance, engine oil, filter, chain, brakes, lights, clutch, side stand, suspension, bolts and tyres. Honda says to service more often in wet or dusty places (air cleaner).
  • Do a pre-ride check every time and a periodic check each month.
  • Have the right parts ready. Use the oil and plug the maker names.
  • Keep a service sheet for each bike: date, kilometres, work done, parts used, problems found, next service due.
  • A service is not finished until you have checked your own work and test-ridden the bike safely with a licensed rider in a helmet (see Unit 7).

Step 1. The daily (pre-ride) check

Honda's list for the rider: fuel level; throttle opens smoothly and closes fully in every steering position; engine oil level and leaks; chain condition, slack and lubrication; brakes; lights, indicators and horn; engine stop switch; clutch free play; side stand; wheels and tyres.

A second list, from a boda-boda rider-training manual in Tanzania: tyres (pressure, wear, tread); fluids and leaks; lights; indicators; clutch and throttle (the throttle should snap back); mirrors; brakes (try front and rear one at a time; each must feel firm and hold the bike when fully applied); horn.

Walk round the bike in the same order every day: front tyre, front brake, lights, mirrors, controls, oil and leaks, chain, rear brake, rear tyre. The order is a simple memory aid (workshop practice). A longer list also names the axle nut and cotter pin, spokes, battery terminals and brake pedal play.

Step 2. Engine oil: check, top up and change

Check the level. The Honda method:

  1. If the engine is cold, run it at idle for 3 to 5 minutes.
  2. Switch off and wait 2 to 3 minutes.
  3. Hold the bike upright on firm, level ground.
  4. Take out the filler cap or dipstick and wipe it clean.
  5. Put it back in until it sits; do not screw it in.
  6. Take it out again. The oil must be between the upper and lower marks.
  7. If low, add the oil the maker recommends up to the upper mark. Do not overfill, do not mix different oils, wipe spills.

Too little or too much oil can damage the engine.

Which oil. The Honda example uses SAE 10W-30, API grade SG or higher, and JASO T 903 MA. The MA class is for four-stroke motorbikes with a clutch that runs in the oil. Your bike may need a different grade. Look it up. The change interval for bikes in Ghana is not verified; use your manual.

Change the oil (workshop practice; the Honda owner's manual does not describe this as an owner task, so ask your trainer):

  1. Run the engine for 2 to 3 minutes so the oil flows, then stop it. Do not let it get hot.
  2. Put the bike on a firm, level place on its stand. Put the drain pan under the drain bolt.
  3. Remove the filler cap to help the oil flow.
  4. Loosen the drain bolt carefully. Take care: the oil is warm. Let it drain for several minutes until it drips slowly.
  5. Fit a new washer if the manual says so. Refit and tighten the drain bolt firmly. Do not over-tighten, which can strip the thread. The torque figure is in your manual (not verified here).
  6. If your bike has an oil filter or strainer, clean or replace it as the manual says.
  7. Add the right amount of new oil through the filler hole, using a funnel. The Honda example takes 0.85 L after draining and 0.90 L with a filter change. Your bike will differ.
  8. Check the level as above, start the engine for a minute, stop it, wait, check the level again and look for leaks under the drain bolt.
  9. Pour the used oil into your labelled waste container (see Unit 1). Wipe spills.

Mistakes and fixes

Mistake Problem Fix
Overfilling Oil can foam; engine can be damaged Drain a little and recheck
Washer reused or left out Slow drip Fit a new washer
Drain bolt too tight Stripped thread Stop; refer to a senior mechanic
Mixing oils Wrong grade Drain and refill with the right oil
Oil on the brake or tyre Brake and grip loss Clean with a clean rag and brake cleaner; refer if in doubt

Step 3. Air filter

  • Honda lists the air cleaner in the schedule and says to service it more often in wet or dusty places. Water in the air cleaner can stop the engine starting.
  • A bike run with no air filter can run too hot.
  • A blocked air filter gives black smoke and weak power.

Steps (workshop practice):

  1. Engine off and cool. Find the air filter box (usually under the seat or beside the frame).
  2. Open the cover, noting how it fits. Take out the filter.
  3. Foam filter: wash in clean soapy water, rinse, squeeze (do not twist), let it dry fully, then put a few drops of clean engine oil on it as the manual says. Paper filter: tap it clean gently and blow from the inside; replace it if it is oily, wet, torn or very dirty.
  4. Wipe out the filter box.
  5. Refit the filter and cover, check that the seal is tight and no air can get past.

Mistake: refitting a wet foam filter or an oily paper filter. The bike will run badly. Mistake: leaving the cover loose, so dust enters the engine.

Step 4. Spark plug

Facts.

  • The Honda example uses an NGK CPR8EA-9 with a gap of 0.8 to 0.9 mm. Two Indian bikes show different gaps (0.7 to 0.8 mm and 0.6 to 0.7 mm). The lesson: always read your own bike's plug type and gap.
  • Measure the gap with a wire or round gauge, not a flat blade. Bend only the side (ground) electrode. Do not re-gap iridium or platinum plugs.
  • A hot plug keeps heat at the tip. A cold plug carries heat away. The number system differs by brand, so do not swap numbers across brands.
  • Reading the plug tip: light brown = normal; sandblasted look = light knock; deposits on the nose = too cold; sugary porcelain = too hot; glazed tip = deposits melted; wet black oil = oil entering the cylinder.
  • Replacing a plug is usually cheaper than cleaning it.

Steps (workshop practice):

  1. Engine off and cold. Pull the plug cap off by the cap, not the wire.
  2. Clean the dirt around the plug with a brush so none falls in the hole.
  3. Unscrew with the plug spanner, keeping the spanner straight.
  4. Look at the tip and read it (table above). Write what you see on the service sheet.
  5. Check the gap with the gauge. Adjust by bending the side electrode a little at a time if needed.
  6. Thread the plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Then tighten snugly with the spanner. The exact torque is in your manual.
  7. Press the cap on until it clicks. Start the engine and listen.

Mistake: cross-threading the plug in the cylinder head (aluminium is soft). If it will not turn easily by hand, stop and start again. Mistake: using a plug of the wrong heat range.

Step 5. Chain and sprockets

The Honda example procedure:

  1. Gear in neutral, engine off, bike on the centre stand on firm level ground.
  2. Measure the slack in the lower run, halfway between the sprockets. The example says 20 to 30 mm and says do not ride if the slack is over 50 mm.
  3. Check slack at several points. If it is not even, some links are bent or tight: have the chain checked.
  4. Turn the rear wheel. The chain must move smoothly.
  5. Look at the sprockets. Hooked or damaged teeth mean wear. A new chain on worn sprockets wears out quickly.
  6. Clean and lubricate the chain with the lubricant the maker gives. For chains with O-rings, use an O-ring safe lubricant. Do not use steam, a high-pressure cleaner, a wire brush or petrol on an O-ring chain. Keep lube off the brakes and tyres.

Replace the chain if it does not move smoothly, makes noise, or has damaged rollers, loose pins, missing O-rings or kinks. The Honda example has an 118-link 428 chain with 14 teeth at the front and 41 at the back. Your bike's chain is different. Always replace the chain and both sprockets together as a set when sprockets are worn (workshop practice).

Adjusting slack (workshop practice; the actual wheel-alignment marks differ by bike):

  1. Loosen the rear axle nut a little (and remove the cotter pin if there is one).
  2. Turn the chain adjusters on both sides by the same amount.
  3. Check the marks on both sides of the swing-arm; the wheel must be in line.
  4. Tighten the axle nut firmly, fit a new cotter pin if there is one and bend it, and recheck the slack. A boda-boda training list checks that the axle nut and cotter pin are secure.
  5. Check the rear brake free play again, because moving the wheel changes it.

Mistakes and fixes

Mistake Problem Fix
Chain too tight Wears chain, bearings and sprockets Loosen to the specified slack
Chain too loose Can jump or fall off Adjust to the specified slack
Only one adjuster turned Wheel out of line Turn both equally and check marks
Lube on the brake Brake fails Clean and check the brake before riding

Step 6. Brakes

The Honda example:

  • Front disc brake: the fluid level must be above the lower mark. If it is low, check the pads. If the pads are not worn, there may be a leak, so have the brake inspected. Replace both pads together when they are worn to the bottom of the wear indicator.
  • Rear drum brake: pedal free play at the tip is 20 to 30 mm in the example. Adjust the rear brake nut a half turn at a time. After adjusting, press the brake several times and check that the wheel turns freely. Shoes need replacing when the wear arrow reaches the mark on full braking.
  • Brake light switch: turn the nut one way if the light comes on too late and the other way if too soon.
  • Brake fluid is DOT 3 or DOT 4 on that bike, replaced every 2 years, and the manual says the job needs mechanical skill. Fluid must not be topped up or changed except in an emergency.
  • After washing, dry the brakes by applying them lightly at low speed.

Safety gate: no brake fluid or bleeding work at this level. Trainees check the fluid level and pad wear, then refer anything else to a senior mechanic or dealer. No source read for this module covers bleeding brakes, so it is not taught here.

Cable brakes on cheap bikes (workshop practice): check the lever travel, tighten or loosen the cable adjuster a little at a time, make sure the wheel spins freely, and lubricate the cable.

Braking basics from a rider-training manual: about 70% of the braking is by the front wheel; use the front brake first, then the rear, then the front again; ease off if the wheel locks. Explain to the customer why the front brake matters.

Mistakes and fixes

Mistake Problem Fix
Only one pad changed Uneven braking Replace both pads together
Adjuster turned too far Brake drags or fails Turn back; stay inside the limits
Oil or grease on shoes or discs Weak braking Clean or replace; refer if unsure
No wheel-spin check after adjusting Brake drags, wears fast Always spin the wheel

Step 7. Clutch, throttle and cables

The Honda example: the clutch lever free play is 10 to 20 mm; adjust with the lock nut and adjusting nut, then tighten the lock nut and recheck. Test: start the engine, pull the lever, select a gear; the engine must not stall and the bike must not creep. Throttle free play is 2 to 6 mm at the grip flange. The throttle must open and close smoothly in every steering position. Replace a damaged or sticking cable. Generic training figures from the Tanzanian manual are 3 to 4 mm for throttle and 2 to 3 mm for clutch, which shows again that figures differ by bike.

Step 8. Tyre pressure

  1. Check pressure with a gauge when the tyres are cold (at least monthly). Honda's example is 175 kPa (25 psi) front and 225 kPa (33 psi) rear. Your bike's figures may differ.
  2. Look for cuts, cracks that show cord, nails and bulges. If the wear indicator is flush with the tread, replace the tyre now.
  3. Set pressure with the pump and gauge. Refit the valve cap.

(Unit 4 gives the details on tyres and punctures.)

Step 9. Lights, fasteners and final checks

  1. Check headlight (low and high beam), brake light, tail light, indicators and horn.
  2. Check the side stand cut-off test, if the bike has one: with the engine running in gear and the stand down, the engine must stop.
  3. Check the suspension and look for oil on the fork legs (workshop practice).
  4. Go over the main nuts and bolts and tighten any that are loose, especially axle nuts, handlebar, footrests and the exhaust (workshop practice).
  5. Check the mirrors, if fitted.

Tricycle service additions

Use the same steps, plus (workshop practice, and see the TVS King example for ideas; the Ghana specifics are not verified):

  1. Check the rear axle for oil leaks, noise, wobble and play when you jack the rear.
  2. Check the final drive oil or grease as the dealer tells you, and write down what the dealer says.
  3. Check the rear brake free play on both rear wheels.
  4. Check all three tyres, mirrors and number plates; the DVLA director said riders of tricycles must show the rear number plate.
  5. Check the load box and its fixings for cracks and loose bolts.
  6. Ask the owner what load they carry. Heavy loads shorten brake and tyre life.

The service sheet

For every bike, record: the owner's name and number, the plate number, the date, the kilometres, the work done, parts used (with price) and next service due. A service sheet turns your work into a record and a reason for customers to come back.

Full service on a carburettor bike

Work in pairs with a trainer watching.

  1. Make a bike data card and find the service figures in the manual.
  2. Do the daily check and write down every finding.
  3. Check the oil level, then change the oil and note the amount.
  4. Clean or replace the air filter.
  5. Remove, read, gap and refit the spark plug.
  6. Measure the chain slack. Lubricate the chain. Adjust it to the figure in your manual.
  7. Check brake free play, pad or shoe wear and the brake-light switch.
  8. Check clutch and throttle free play.
  9. Check and set the tyre pressure when cold.
  10. Check lights, horn and side-stand test.
  11. Fill in the service sheet. The trainer will road-test (see Unit 7).

Check, work out and decide (all figures are examples)

  1. A bike's chain slack is 38 mm. The maker's figure for that bike is 20 to 30 mm and the do-not-ride limit is 50 mm. Is the chain in range? What do you do?
  2. A tyre gauge reads 175 kPa. Convert it to psi using 1 psi = 6.895 kPa (round to the nearest whole number).
  3. A customer pays GH¢150 (example) for a service. Parts: 1 L oil GH¢60, plug GH¢15, air filter GH¢20 (example prices). What is your labour income?
  4. A bike's manual says 0.9 L of oil after a filter change. You have a 1 L can. How much is left?

Service sheet at home

Take a bike or a bicycle chain in your family. Do the daily check on a bike with a trainer's permission. Write a service sheet. Tell the owner in simple words what you found. Ask the owner to sign it.

Check yourself 3

  1. Why do you read your own bike's manual before using a figure from this book?
  2. Which kind of plug do you NOT re-gap?
  3. What must you do after you adjust the rear brake?
05

Unit 4 · Tyres, tubes and puncture repair

Tyres are the only parts of the bike that touch the road. A puncture repair done well keeps a rider safe and earns steady money.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
4.1 Inspect tyres checks pressure, tread, damage and valves and decides repair or replace
4.2 Find and repair a puncture finds the leak, repairs the tube with a patch and refits the tyre
4.3 Fit a wheel safely refits the wheel, checks the axle, brake and chain and balances the work
4.4 Know the limits says when a tyre must be replaced and when a job needs a senior mechanic

Range. One tubed wheel, one tricycle wheel if possible. Evidence. Repaired tube test; observation.

Tubed and tubeless tyres

  • Many Ghana bikes use tubed tyres on spoked or cast wheels. This is not verified for each bike; check yours.
  • The Honda example has tubeless tyres (80/100-18 front, 90/90-18 rear). Do not fit a tube in a tubeless tyre of that bike. A tubeless emergency kit is only a temporary repair (maximum 50 km/h) until the tyre is replaced.
  • Use the tyre size and type the maker names. Look for the size on the tyre side.
  • Honda warns that a temporary repair is risky and the tyre should be replaced.

Tools and materials

Tyre levers (2 or 3), spanners for the axle nut, a pump and pressure gauge, a bowl of clean water, sandpaper or a rasp, vulcanising solution, patches, chalk or a pen, a clean rag, a soap-and-water solution, a stand to lift the wheel. Ask the vulcanizer (tyre repairer) in your town where they buy patches and solution. Prices are not verified.

Remove the wheel and tyre

The following steps are adapted from bicycle and motorcycle guides, because tyre removal on a motorbike is similar but needs more effort. Check the wheel instructions in your manual.

  1. Put the bike on a firm stand so the wheel is off the ground. Follow the manual to take off the wheel (brake cable or rod, chain, axle nut, cotter pin). Note how every part goes back.
  2. Let all the air out of the tube. Remove the valve cap.
  3. Push the tyre bead (the edge) away from the rim all round. Standing on the side of the tyre or pressing with your knee, work the bead into the centre of the rim (workshop practice).
  4. Put a tyre lever under the bead and lever one side off the rim. Hook the lever on a spoke if it has one. Put in a second lever about 5 cm away and work around the tyre until one side is off.
  5. Pull the tube out. Take care not to pinch it with a lever.
  6. Take the tyre off the rim if you must see inside. If the tyre is stiff, work in small steps. Do not use screwdrivers to lever a tyre; they cut the tube and scratch the rim (workshop practice).

Find the hole

  1. Run your fingers carefully inside the tyre to feel for the thorn, nail or glass. Remove it. Keep checking all around, because there may be more than one.
  2. Inflate the tube a little. Pass it through water and look for bubbles, or listen for the hiss.
  3. Mark the hole with chalk or a pen. Dry the tube.
  4. Check the rim and the rim tape or rubber for a sharp spoke end or burr.

Patch the tube

  1. Roughen the area around the hole with sandpaper (about the size of the patch).
  2. Apply a thin, even coat of vulcanising solution. Wait until it is dry and tacky. The most common mistake is putting the patch on too soon.
  3. Press the patch on firmly from the centre outward, with no air bubbles.
  4. Leave it for the time on the solution packet.
  5. Inflate the tube and test again in water.

Refit the tube and tyre

  1. Put a little air in the tube so it holds its shape. Put the valve through the rim hole first.
  2. Push the tube into the tyre. Make sure it is not twisted and not pinched under the bead.
  3. Seat one side of the bead, then the other, working with your hands and then a lever with care. Do not pinch the tube.
  4. Inflate to the specified pressure. Check the patch and the valve for leaks, then let the pressure down and up again to settle the bead.
  5. Refit the wheel, axle, chain, brake and cotter pin. Check the chain slack and rear brake free play, and spin the wheel.

Large cuts and sidewall damage: replace the tyre. Do not patch a sidewall.

Safety gate. Do not use petrol or fire to clean or dry a tube (not recommended). Do not stand over a tyre when inflating it for the first time. If you cannot get a bead to seat, or the tyre is stiff, ask your trainer. A tyre that fails during inflation can injure you. The special bead-breaking tools are not covered by the sources read; learn them under supervision.

Mistakes and fixes

Mistake Problem Fix
Patching before the solution is dry Patch lifts Remove, clean, repeat; wait for tacky
Tube pinched under the bead Burst when pumped Deflate, free the tube, refit
Thorn left inside the tyre Repeated punctures Check inside the tyre again
Tube twisted Uneven wear, bulge Deflate and straighten
Wrong tube size Folds or stretches Use the size printed on the tyre
Axle not tightened or no new cotter pin Wheel can come loose Fit and check

Replace or repair

Look at If you find Do
Tread Wear indicators (TWI) flush with the tread Replace the tyre now
Cord Cut or cracked until the cord shows Replace
Sidewall Cut or bulge Replace
Tube Small hole Patch
Tube Old with many patches or perished Replace

Tricycle tyres and loads

A loaded tricycle is heavy and needs the right tyre pressure (maker's figure) on all three wheels. Overloading and wrong pressure wear tyres quickly and make the vehicle unstable. Check all three tyres at every service.

Mend a puncture

  1. Lift the bike. Take the wheel off following the manual.
  2. Remove the tyre and tube, and find the hole by water test.
  3. Patch the tube. Wait for the solution to go tacky.
  4. Refit the tube and tyre, and inflate to the correct pressure.
  5. Check the patch in water again. Refit the wheel, check the chain, brake, axle nut and cotter pin.
  6. Record the time you took and the parts used.

Cost a puncture job (all figures are examples)

You charge GH¢10 (example) per puncture patch job. A tube of vulcanising solution and a box of patches cost GH¢50 in total and last for 25 jobs. You do 12 jobs in a day. What is your income and the cost of materials for 12 jobs, and what is left?

Find the vulcanizer

Visit a tyre repairer (vulcanizer) in your town. Ask how they find a hole, how long they wait for the solution, and what they charge. Write down two good habits you saw.

Check yourself 4

  1. What must you do before you put on the patch?
  2. When must you replace a tyre instead of patching it?
  3. What check do you make before you ride after refitting a wheel?
06

Unit 5 · Simple fault-finding

Find faults in order, one system at a time. Do not guess and do not change parts at random.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
5.1 Use a decision order follows a set order when a bike will not start
5.2 Diagnose weak power and smoke links symptoms to likely causes and checks them in order
5.3 Diagnose noise and brake faults names likely causes of noises and brake faults
5.4 Know when to refer says when a fault needs a senior mechanic or dealer

Range. Two bikes with planted simple faults (supervised). Evidence. Fault-finding record; observation.

The rule: one system at a time

Test one system at a time, in order: does it crank, then the switches and basics, then spark, then fuel and air, then compression.

A. The bike will not start

Step 1. Basic checks.

  1. Fuel tap on? Petrol in the tank? Fuel line not bent?
  2. Kill switch at RUN? Ignition on? In neutral or clutch in? Side stand up?
  3. Choke on for a cold carburettor engine (the Tanzanian training sequence is Fuel tap on, Ignition on, Neutral, Engine cut-off switch RUN, Choke and Clutch). Do not use the throttle with the choke.
  4. Is the bike wet from rain or washing? Water in the plug cap, switches or ignition can stop a start.

Step 2. Does it turn over (crank)?

  • If it does not crank at all with the electric starter: check the battery (12.0 V or more on the multimeter is a good sign), then the fuse, the starter switch and the kill switch. The Honda manual lists these causes: starting sequence, stop switch, blown fuse, loose or corroded battery connection, weak battery.
  • If it cranks but will not start, go to Step 3.

Step 3. Spark test (workshop practice, with a helper; keep fuel away):

  1. Pull the plug cap and take out the plug. Look at the plug. A wet plug means fuel is arriving but there is no spark. A dry plug means no fuel.
  2. Put the plug in its cap and rest the metal side on the engine. Crank the engine and watch. A strong whitish-blue spark is healthy. An orange, weak or no spark means an ignition fault: plug, cap, coil, pick-up or CDI box, or stator.
  3. Do not do the spark test near spilt petrol.

Step 4. Fuel and air.

  1. Check that fuel reaches the carburettor. Open the fuel tap; check the fuel line and the tank vent.
  2. Check the air filter is fitted and clean.
  3. A few drops of petrol in the cylinder: if the engine fires for a few turns, then ignition is fine and the carburettor or fuel supply is the problem.

Step 5. Compression. Last. Low compression suggests worn rings, a leaking seal or head gasket or valves out of adjustment. Compression tests and valve work are Level 2 jobs. At this level, refer the bike.

Injected bikes. If the warning lamp is on, avoid high speed and go to the dealer. If it blinks, stop, park away from flammables, wait at least 10 minutes with the engine off, and if it blinks again, go to a dealer at 50 km/h or less. Check the basics, then refer.

Old petrol. Old petrol can leave varnish that blocks small passages in a carburettor (workshop practice). Teach customers to avoid leaving petrol in the tank for weeks.

B. Weak power or poor running

Check in this order (workshop practice):

  1. Air filter blocked?
  2. Choke stuck on?
  3. Fuel old or dirty?
  4. Spark plug fouled or wrong heat range?
  5. Tyre pressure low?
  6. Chain too tight or too loose?
  7. Brakes dragging? Spin the wheel by hand; it must turn freely
  8. Clutch slipping? If the clutch free play is too small, the clutch can wear early
  9. Valve clearance, compression: Level 2 jobs. Refer.

C. Smoke

Smoke Likely cause First checks
Blue or blue-grey Burning oil: worn rings, valve seals or too much oil Check oil level; refer
Black Too rich: blocked air filter, choke stuck, carburettor float or jet problem Air filter, choke; carburettor is Level 2
White Thin vapour on a cold or damp morning is normal and clears. Persistent thick white smoke is not Refer; water in fuel is possible (not verified)

Most okadas are air-cooled, so coolant leaks are not a common cause (not verified). Check that the bike is a four-stroke before using this table (two-stroke smoke is different and is not covered).

D. Noise

Verified by the sources: chain and sprocket wear; knock shown by a sandblasted plug. The rest are workshop practice.

Noise Likely cause
Tapping from the top of the engine Valve clearance (Level 2)
Rattle on acceleration Knock: fuel, plug heat range, carbon
Chain rattle or whine Slack, dry or worn chain or sprockets
Grinding when braking Pads or shoes worn to metal
Rumble from a wheel Worn wheel bearing
Loud blowing Exhaust leak

E. Brake faults

  • Spongy or long lever: low fluid, air in the line, or worn pads or shoes. Check the pads and fluid level first. If the pads are fine and the fluid is low, there may be a leak, so refer.
  • Drum brake free play wrong: adjust half a turn at a time.
  • Squeal or weak braking: oil on the brake.
  • Brake drags: the wheel does not spin freely.
  • Bleeding: no source read covers it, so refer it.

When to refer

Refer the bike to a senior mechanic or dealer when: the job needs brake fluid work, valve or head work, or a compression test (Level 2); the fault is not found after the basic checks; there is a petrol leak; the injection warning lamp blinks; or you do not feel sure. Honda classes valve clearance as a dealer job unless the mechanic has the tools and skill and the Honda Shop Manual. Say so to the customer honestly. This protects them and you.

Talk to the customer

  1. Ask what the bike did, and when the problem started.
  2. Check the simple things first, then tell the customer what you found.
  3. Show the old part.
  4. Tell the customer the cost before you replace anything (see Unit 7).

Fault-finding drill

  1. Your trainer sets a simple fault on a bike (for example fuel tap off, fouled plug, loose plug cap, flat battery, blocked air filter).
  2. Without being told, use the order in this unit. Write each check and the result in your fault-finding record.
  3. Name the fault and the repair.
  4. Write what you would tell the customer.

Fault diary

Ask a rider or tricycle owner what faults they have had in the last year. Write down three faults and say which system each one belongs to (fuel, air, spark, compression, electrics, brakes, tyres, chain).

Check yourself 5

  1. What does a wet spark plug tell you? What does a dry one tell you?
  2. Which smoke colour points to burning oil?
  3. When must you refer a bike?
07

Unit 6 · Battery, lights and electrical basics

Most bike electrics run on 12 volts. The work is small, but a poor connection can stop the whole bike.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
6.1 Care for the battery checks, cleans, charges and fits a battery safely
6.2 Replace fuses and bulbs finds and replaces a blown fuse or bulb with the right rating
6.3 Test with a multimeter reads battery volts and checks a simple circuit
6.4 Find a "no light" fault follows an order to find the fault

Range. One bike with a battery and fuse box. Evidence. Test record; observation.

Safety gate. This unit covers 12-volt bike circuits only. Wiring of buildings and mains electricity (230 V) is not part of this course and is not done by trainees. Whether the Energy Commission wiring licence applies to 12 V vehicle wiring is not verified; do not wire mains power.

Battery

  1. A battery gives off explosive gas. Keep flames and sparks away. Wear gloves and glasses.
  2. A maintenance-free battery: do not take off the cap seals and do not add water.
  3. Clean corroded terminals. If the corrosion is light, use warm water; if heavy, use a wire brush or sandpaper, wearing safety glasses.
  4. Charging: take the battery off the bike and use a charger meant for motorcycle batteries. A car charger can overheat a motorcycle battery. Jump-starting from a car battery can damage the bike's electrical system.
  5. Fitting: connect the positive (+) terminal first when installing, as in the Honda manual; when removing, take off the negative (-) first. Make sure terminals are tight and clean.
  6. Long storage: remove the battery or disconnect the negative terminal.
  7. Old battery: do not throw it in household rubbish. Take it to a battery seller or recycler.

The Honda example uses a 12 V 6 Ah battery. Your bike's battery is on its data card.

Using the multimeter

  1. Set the dial to DC volts (20 V range).
  2. Black probe to the battery negative, red to positive.
  3. Read the volts with the engine off. About 12.0 V or more is a good sign. Lower means charge or replace.
  4. Charging check (workshop practice; figures are a typical teaching range, not verified for your bike): start the engine, hold it at a steady fast idle, read volts again. A reading higher than the resting reading (often about 13.5 to 14.5 V) shows the charging system works. If the reading does not rise, refer to Level 2 for stator and regulator tests.
  5. Wire colours differ by bike (not verified). Use the wiring diagram in the manual.

Fuses

  • The Honda example has a 20 A main fuse and 7.5 A other fuses.
  • Always replace a blown fuse with one of the same rating. A bigger fuse can damage the circuit. A fuse that blows again and again means there is an electrical fault.

Bulbs and lights

  1. Switch off. Let the bulb cool.
  2. Take out the old bulb; note its rating. The Honda example: brake and tail 12 V 21/5 W; turn signals 12 V 21 W; plate light 12 V 5 W; LED headlight. Bulb ratings for many Ghana bikes (for example the headlamp) are not verified; read the old bulb or the manual.
  3. Fit the new bulb with the same rating. Do not touch glass bulbs with bare fingers (workshop practice).
  4. Test before you ride.
  5. Headlight aim: check it is not blinding other road users and lights the road (workshop practice).

"No lights" decision order

(workshop practice) Follow the order:

  1. Fuse blown? Replace with same rating.
  2. Bulb blown? Replace.
  3. Connector loose or corroded? Clean and push in firmly.
  4. Earth (ground) wire loose? Clean and tighten.
  5. Switch faulty? Try the other positions.
  6. Battery flat? Test with the multimeter.
  7. If all fine, refer.

Accessories

Extra lights, phone chargers and horns can overload the bike's electrical system. Do not add accessories without the dealer's advice.

Battery, fuse and bulb

  1. Wearing gloves and glasses, remove the battery from a training bike (negative first).
  2. Clean the terminals. Read the battery voltage with the multimeter and record it.
  3. Charge the battery with a motorcycle charger as the trainer shows.
  4. Refit the battery (positive first). Check the terminals are tight.
  5. Find the fuse box. Take out one fuse, read its rating, and put it back. Replace a blown fuse with the same rating.
  6. Replace one bulb with the right rating. Test every light.
  7. Write the "no lights" order on your logbook page and use it on a bike with a planted fault.

Voltage and fuses (all figures are examples)

  1. A resting battery reads 11.6 V. What do you do?
  2. A 7.5 A fuse blows twice in one day. Another mechanic offers a 20 A fuse "to stop it blowing". What do you say?
  3. Brake light: 21 W bulb on a 12 V system. Use current (A) = watts ÷ volts to find the current drawn (round to 1 decimal).

Light check

Look at five motorbikes or tricycles near you (from a safe distance). Count how many have a working brake light and indicators. Write your count. Do not stop anyone; just look at parked vehicles.

Check yourself 6

  1. Which battery terminal do you connect first when fitting?
  2. What do you do with a blown fuse?
  3. Why not use a car charger on a motorcycle battery?
08

Unit 7 · Location, business and marketing

A clean workshop, honest prices and a good record are the start of a motorbike repair business.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria: the trainee…
7.1 Know the rules explains helmet, licence and parts rules in simple words
7.2 Choose a business form and place judges a place and a business idea
7.3 Cost and price work writes a simple quote and prices a service
7.4 Market yourself plans a name, sign and ways to be known
7.5 Include everyone names tasks and adjustments for persons with disabilities

Range. The trainee's own plan. Evidence. Quote; costing sheet; one-page plan.

Rules to know (as of October 2026)

This is a summary, not legal advice. Check before you act.

  • The Road Traffic Regulations, 2012 (L.I. 2180) banned commercial use of motorcycles to carry passengers, apart from courier and delivery use. Enforcement was weak.
  • Parliament passed the Road Traffic (Amendment) Bill on 11 December 2025 to permit commercial okada, tricycles and quadricycles with protective gear.
  • A DVLA director described new regulations, L.I. 2519 (Road Traffic Regulations, 2026): commercial riders must hold a DVLA licence (regulations 164 to 166), be at least 21, belong to a recognised transport organisation, and pass tests; riders must wear a crash helmet and provide one to any passenger (regulation 174); tricycle riders must show the rear number plate. The date it comes into force is not verified.
  • In May 2026, the Law Reform Commission said riders should hold a licence, be medically fit, have insurance, join a recognised union and operate in set zones, and that "there is a misconception that anyone with a motorbike can now operate commercially". The 2027 union deadline is an announced target, not a confirmed legal date.
  • Helmets: helmets are required for rider and passenger. The Ghana Standards Authority has developed a national helmet standard, GS 4512:2025, and is checking helmets at ports.
  • Police traffic units have impounded bikes for no licence, no insurance, no registration, no roadworthy certificate and no helmet. Current fines are not verified.
  • Your job: a mechanic is not a commercial rider, but you may road-test bikes. Never road-test without a valid licence and a helmet. See below.

Mechanics and the road test. Road-test a bike only if you hold a valid riding licence and wear a helmet that meets Ghana's standard. Customer bikes without documents may still be tested only in a safe, closed space at walking speed. If you are not a licensed rider, ask a licensed rider to test the bike. Honda recommends that a dealer road-tests a bike after each periodic service.

Safe road test

  1. Check the brakes at walking speed first.
  2. Check the steering. Wobble can come from wrong tyre pressure, loose bearings or spokes, worn parts or a bent wheel.
  3. Listen for chain and engine noise.
  4. Check throttle response and gears.
  5. Then ride at a moderate speed and recheck brakes and lights.
  6. Wear a helmet fitted so it does not rotate on your head when you try to turn it, and fasten the strap. Do not hang a helmet on the helmet holder while riding.

Business ideas

Idea What it is Good points Watch out
Roadside garage Fixed spot near a stand or road Walk-in customers Rent, weather, space, waste oil
Mobile mechanic Rides or travels with a tool bag to riders Low cost; can go to farms and fish landing sites Weather, safety, limited tools
Tyre and puncture service Tyres, tubes and punctures only Small start, daily demand Many competitors
Tricycle service Servicing cargo tricycles Heavy use, repeat work Special parts, load
Electrical and lights Lights, battery, small electrics Less heavy work Needs patience and a multimeter
Parts shop Sell plugs, filters, oil, tubes Steady sales Capital; fake-part risk

Evidence for incomes, rents, tool-set costs and prices per job in Takoradi and Akwidaa is not found. Treat any figure as an example, and check by asking mechanics near you. Some Ghana microfinance loans for mechanics around 2017 asked for very small starter tool sets (for example, a spanner set and an air pump), which shows a person can start small.

Choose a location

  • Near okada stands, tricycle parks, markets and busy roads
  • Near fish landing sites, farms and roads where heavy tricycles go (Akwidaa demand is not verified)
  • Space for several bikes, with shade and level ground
  • A place where used oil can be kept in closed containers away from drains and the sea
  • Safe water, a lock for tools, and room to keep customer bikes safe
  • Permission from the landowner and the Assembly (the permit for a garage is not verified)

How to price a service: a worked example

(All figures are examples.) Plan the cost of a full service:

  • Parts: oil 1 L GH¢60, spark plug GH¢15, air filter GH¢20 = GH¢95.
  • Your time: 1 hour of labour at GH¢40.
  • Total quote = GH¢135.

Write it on a quote: the parts and their price, the labour, the total, and the date until which the quote is valid. Tell the customer before you start work. If you find more problems, stop and tell them the extra cost first.

Quote and profit (all figures are examples)

A rider asks for an oil change, a new plug and a puncture repair. Oil 1 L costs you GH¢60 and you sell it at GH¢70. A plug costs you GH¢15 and you sell it at GH¢20. A puncture costs GH¢2 in materials and you charge GH¢10. Labour for the oil and plug is GH¢20.

  1. What is the total bill?
  2. What is your total cost?
  3. What is your profit?

Market yourself

(Workshop practice, not verified; try and see what works.)

  • A clear name and sign with your phone or WhatsApp number.
  • Show the old part to the customer.
  • Give a short written note of the work and a repair warranty you can keep, for example one week on a repaired puncture (set your own).
  • Be on time. Keep your workshop tidy and your waste in closed containers.
  • Work with okada unions: unions are to keep member records and arrange rider training, so they can be a way to meet commercial riders.
  • Ask riders to tell others. A good name travels fast.
  • Do not sell fake parts. Honda Ghana says roadside mechanics may use low-quality parts; that is the gap you can fill.

Training and apprenticeship

The National Apprenticeship Programme lists "Motor Bike Repair" as a trade. Traditional apprenticeship in Ghana lasts one to five years and is often not regulated. Honda's authorised dealers in Ghana run a skills and accreditation programme for mechanics. Ask whether a dealer in Takoradi takes trainees; this is not verified.

Accessibility

No Ghana source specific to disabled motorbike mechanics was found. A 2008 project in Koforidua trained 12 Ghanaians with disabilities in bicycle repair so they could run businesses, and a South African paraplegic man trained as a diesel mechanic. These are suggestions, not tested rules [suggestion, not source-verified]:

  • Bench and seated tasks suit many wheelchair users and people with limited walking: carburettor and plug work on a bench, puncture patching on a bench, electrical tests, cables, the parts counter, quotes and bookkeeping.
  • Raised stands and bench-height wheel stands let you work on a wheel or a bike while seated.
  • Heavy tasks (levering stiff tyres, lifting) can be done in a pair, or with tools such as a bench tyre changer.
  • Low vision: bright light, tactile gap gauges, large-print checklists and labelled bins.
  • Deaf or hard of hearing: written job cards and signs; use sight and touch for diagnosis; a partner can listen for engine sounds.
  • Intellectual disability: picture checklists and the same step repeated until it is easy.
  • Road tests: riding is separate from repair. A partner who is a licensed rider can do the test.
  • A mechanic who cannot ride can still run a workshop.

Business plan

  1. Choose a business idea from the table and say why.
  2. Choose a location. Draw a simple plan of the workshop with a bay for each bike, a place for waste oil and a safe place for tools.
  3. Write a quote for a full service, with labour and parts (example prices from your own shop visits).
  4. Write the name and a one-line message for your sign.
  5. Say how you will include a person with a disability in your team.

Talk to a mechanic

Ask a mechanic near you how many bikes they service in a week, what their biggest problem is, and what they wish they had learned first. Write three lines.

Check yourself 7

  1. Why should a mechanic give a quote before starting work?
  2. Name two things a mechanic must have before road-testing a customer's bike.
  3. Name one task that can be done seated.
09

Glossary

Term Meaning
Air filter (air cleaner) A filter that cleans the air going into the engine
Aboboyaa / pragya Local names for a cargo tricycle
Bead The edge of a tyre that sits on the rim
Carburettor The part that mixes fuel and air in many bikes
Choke A device that makes the mixture richer for a cold start
Compression The squeezing of fuel and air in the cylinder
Cotter pin A small split pin that locks a nut
Drain bolt The bolt that lets old engine oil out
Free play How far a lever or pedal moves before it starts to work
Fuse A small part that melts to protect a circuit
Gap (spark plug) The small distance between the two plug electrodes
Multimeter A tool that measures volts and other electrical values
Okada Local name for a commercial motorbike
Pre-ride check The quick check done before riding
Slack (chain) How far the chain moves up and down
Vulcanizer A tyre repairer; also the person who patches tubes
Vulcanising solution The rubber glue for patching tubes
Wear indicator A mark that shows when a part must be replaced
10

Logbook

  • Unit 1: workshop safety checklist
  • Unit 2: parts hunt notes and one bike data card
  • Unit 3: service sheet for one full service; oil, plug, chain and brake records
  • Unit 4: puncture repair record
  • Unit 5: fault-finding record for each fault
  • Unit 6: battery, fuse and bulb record
  • Unit 7: quote, costing and one-page plan
  • Every homework, dated and signed by your trainer
11

Self-check quiz

  1. Name three things to do before starting any work on a bike.
  2. Why must you never run an engine in a closed room?
  3. Where do you find the correct service figures for a bike?
  4. Name the three things an engine needs to run, and the fourth thing it needs inside the cylinder.
  5. After you adjust a rear drum brake, what do you check?
  6. What does a wet spark plug tell you?
  7. What is the first thing to check when a bike will not start?
  8. What does blue smoke from the exhaust usually mean?
  9. What must you do before putting a patch on a tube?
  10. Which battery terminal do you connect first, and why must a fuse be replaced with the same rating?
  11. What must a mechanic have before road-testing a customer's bike?
  12. Why give a quote before starting work?
12

Further reading and sources

Best next reads: your bike's owner's manual; the Hub's Workplace Safety and Money Skills manuals; the Level 2 and Level 3 books in this course.

What this module does not cover: brake fluid work and bleeding, carburettor cleaning, valve clearance and compression tests, engine rebuilds, injected bike diagnosis, mains electrical wiring, business registration and accounting (see Levels 2 and 3). Fees for DVLA registration, licences and a garage permit were not found, so none are given.

Every source used in this manual is listed, with links, in the Teacher Copy.

One application of the Cold-Start Learning Kit, which stays general-purpose and can build a guide on any topic in any field. Written in CTVET format; not a CTVET curriculum.