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Level 2 · National Proficiency II · CTVET formatTrainee Manual

Outboard Motor Repair Level 2

Find the fault, fix it, prove it. Diagnose fuel, spark, water and electrical faults in a fixed order, service the lower unit, test-run safely, and turn your skill into a living at the landing beach.

Servicing an outboard motor A beach beside a calm sea. A wooden canoe rests on the sand with an outboard motor clamped to its stern. A mechanic in a cap crouches by the motor with a spanner. In front on the sand are an open tool tray with a spark plug, a spanner and a screwdriver, a red fuel can with a funnel, and an orange lifejacket.
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Prepared by De-Graft Afful · Version 1.0.0 · October 2026
01

About this module

Level 1 taught you to look after a motor. Level 2 teaches you to find out why it will not run, and to prove that it is fixed.

Who it is for. People who have finished Outboard Motor Repair (Level 1), or who can show the same skills. National Proficiency II covers varied work, mostly routine, under limited supervision.

CTVET status. No CTVET or NVTI outboard-motor programme was found. Small Engines Technology is the nearest. This module is not a CTVET curriculum. It follows CTVET's format so it can be put forward later. The informal apprenticeship is still the main route into this trade.

Maker's numbers. Torque, plug gap, gear-oil quantity, mixing ratio and electrical values differ by engine model. This book only read the owner's manuals of Tohatsu and Honda, and uses them as labelled examples. For Yamaha, Suzuki, Mercury and other makes, the book says "use the maker's manual". Never copy a number from this book onto a different engine.

Our own rules for every unit. Engine off, plug caps off, lanyard key out and fuel disconnected before you touch a part. No running in a closed workshop. No work under a tilted motor that is not locked or supported.

Bridge from Level 1: what you already know

  • Safety: fuel and fire, propeller, carbon monoxide, lifejackets, noise, hot parts
  • Parts of an outboard and the tools you need; two-stroke versus four-stroke
  • Fuel mixing with a ratio and the sums for it
  • Routine service: daily checks, plugs, fuel filter cup, gear-oil check, split pin
  • Flushing, storage and salt-water care
  • Simple faults and first checks
  • Business basics and how to find customers

Level 1 told you to stop and call a mechanic for harder faults. Level 2 is where you become that mechanic: strip a spare carburettor, replace an impeller, change gear oil, measure a battery, and write a proper quote. Some jobs stay dealer-only or need the maker's data (ignition timing, carburettor jet and float settings). The book says so clearly each time.

How the module works

Each unit has learning outcomes, performance criteria, the range and the evidence your assessor needs. You are judged Competent or Not Yet Competent. About 70% of your time is hands-on work.

Labels you will see.

  • (general practice, not verified) means the method is standard workshop teaching but no maker's manual or source we could read confirmed it. Check with a licensed mechanic or the dealer.
  • Trainer to check means the step is not in any free manual we could read. Your trainer must confirm it against the engine's own workshop manual before you do it for real.
  • Example means an invented number for practice, not a real price.
02

Unit 1 · Carburettor, fuel system and ignition diagnosis

Nearly every engine that will not start is short of fuel, spark or both. Learn to find out which, in the right order, before you open anything.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
1.1 Trace the fuel path names every part from the tank to the cylinder and says what can go wrong in each
1.2 Strip and clean a spare carburettor follows the safe steps, cleans jets, replaces gaskets and reassembles correctly
1.3 Check the ignition removes plugs, reads them, sets the gap, and tests for spark safely
1.4 Decide when to stop knows which jobs need the maker's data or a dealer

Range. Two-stroke pre-mix and four-stroke outboards; carburettor first, then fuel-injection awareness. Evidence. Fuel-path sketch; carburettor job sheet; plug record; oral questions.

The fuel path, in order

Trace it with your finger on a real engine. Fuel goes: tank (with its vent screw and pickup filter) → fuel hose and connector → primer bulb → filter (cup or spin-on) → fuel pump → carburettor (or vapour separator on a fuel-injected engine) → cylinder. A fault anywhere along this path starves the engine.

  • Tank: empty, vent screw closed, cap gasket bad, water or dirt at the bottom, wrong fuel or oil
  • Hose and connector: pinched, cracked, soft, wrong connector, air leaking in
  • Primer bulb: it should go firm when squeezed; if it does not firm up, look for a leak, then replace the bulb
  • Filter: water or dirt in the cup; a clogged element
  • Pump: does not move fuel
  • Carburettor: gummed jets, a stuck float valve, a flooded bowl

The Tohatsu two-stroke manual lists these hard-start causes: empty tank, fuel line wrongly connected, air entering the fuel line, a damaged hose, a closed air vent on the tank cap, a clogged filter, pump or carburettor, wrong oil or petrol, flooding from excessive petrol, poor carburettor adjustment, dirty or non-specified plugs, weak or no spark and a missing safety-switch lock plate.

Fuel problems that look like engine problems

  • Water in the fuel. The engine starts, then dies or misfires. Look for water in the see-through filter cup. Ethanol blends take up water; at about 0.5% water, it can bond with the alcohol and sink to the pickup. Additives cannot remove water or make stale fuel good again. Drain fuel from the vapour separator or carburettor drain until what comes out is clean, clean the tank and tank filter, and replace the filter.
  • Stale fuel. Honda says petrol can deteriorate in as little as 15 days. Fuel left in a carburettor forms gum and varnish and sticks the float valve.
  • Wrong mix. Too little oil in a two-stroke can seize the engine; too much oil fouls plugs and makes smoke. Never mix different brands of oil, because they can gel and block the filter screen.
  • Four-stroke engines must not run on premix. The four-stroke manual wants plain petrol with separate crankcase oil. This is our inference from the manuals, not a Ghana rule.

Fuel work is fire work. Work outdoors, away from sparks and flames. Do not smoke. Do not work on the fuel system of an engine that is running or still hot. Wipe spills at once. Open a portable tank by loosening the vent screw first, then the cap slowly.

Carburettor: what it does

The carburettor mixes air and petrol. Fuel enters the float bowl; a float and needle valve keep the level steady; the air flowing through draws fuel up through small jets; a choke or primer richens the mix for starting and a throttle plate controls the flow. Dirt or gum in the jets is the usual fault on stored engines.

Know where the line is. The Tohatsu two-stroke manual lists "strip, clean and adjust the carburettor, adjust idling" as a dealer job every 100 hours or 6 months. At Level 2 you strip and clean a spare carburettor on the bench to learn it. Jet sizes, float height and needle settings are engine-specific and not verified in this book. Use the maker's data. Do not change idle or ignition timing from memory.

Practical: clean a spare carburettor (bench job)

The sequence below follows a general how-to article (not retrievable in full) and standard workshop practice. Trainer to check against the workshop manual for the engine in front of you.

Strip and clean a spare carburettor

Tools and materials. Clean bench, tray for parts, screwdrivers, small pliers, carburettor cleaner, compressed air or a hand pump, soft brush (an old toothbrush), carburettor repair kit (gaskets and needle), gloves, eye protection, a container for drained fuel.

Safety. Outdoors or well ventilated. No flame, no smoking, no phones charging nearby. Wear eye protection when using cleaner or air.

  1. Before you take it apart, take a photo of each side and draw the linkages. Write the engine and carburettor numbers in your logbook.
  2. Drain the float bowl into a container. Never pour fuel on the ground.
  3. Remove the bowl screws and the bowl. Note the position of the float, its hinge pin and the needle valve.
  4. Lift out the float and pin. Look at the needle's tip: a groove or a bright ring means it is worn and must be replaced from the kit.
  5. Remove the jets (main and pilot) with the correct screwdriver. Keep each in its own labelled place; do not mix them. Do not poke the jet holes with wire, which enlarges them.
  6. Soak dirty parts in carburettor cleaner (overnight for stubborn gum). Brush away the varnish. Blow through every passage with air. Check that you can see light through each jet.
  7. Fit new gaskets and the new needle from the repair kit.
  8. Reassemble in the reverse order, using your photos. Check that the float moves freely and the choke and throttle plate move smoothly.
  9. Do not adjust idle or mixture screws. Leave them at the maker's setting, or note the screw turns before you remove them and return to the same position.
  10. Record in your logbook what you found: gum, water, dirt or a worn needle.

Check. Float moves freely. Needle seats. Nothing left over. No fuel smell on the bench.

Common mistakes. Mixing up the jets; enlarging a jet with wire; losing the float pin; overtightening the aluminium screws; leaving fuel in the bowl on the bench; refitting an old gasket.

Ignition: reading the plug

Level 1 taught you to remove, inspect and fit a plug. Now read what it says.

Plug facts you can verify (examples, from two makers).

Engine Plug Gap
Tohatsu M40D2 (two-stroke) NGK B7HS-10 or BR7HS-10 0.9-1.0 mm
Tohatsu MFS25C/30C (four-stroke) NGK DCPR6E 0.8-0.9 mm
Honda BF40D NGK DR7EB 0.6-0.7 mm
Other makes Use the maker's manual Use the maker's manual

Replace a plug with a worn electrode or a cracked or chipped insulator; use only the specified type; measure the gap with a wire-type feeler gauge; fit by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten (18 Nm on the Tohatsu 25/30, or 1/4-1/2 turn past finger-tight if you have no torque wrench, then check with a torque wrench as soon as you can).

Reading a plug (general practice, not verified; learn it from plugs from your own engines):

What you see It usually means (general practice, not verified)
Dry, light brown or grey tip Engine and mixture are healthy
Wet, oily black Too much oil or fuel; flooding; weak spark
Dry, dull black soot Rich mixture, choke or wrong plug
Very white, blistered Lean mixture or overheating: stop and check cooling
Metal or beads on the tip Serious engine damage: stop and call a dealer

Spark test (general practice, not verified)

No manual we read gives a standard spark test or coil resistance values. Teach it this way, and have the trainer confirm it for each engine.

Spark test dangers. The ignition makes a high voltage. Hold the plug cap or lead only by its rubber boot, never by the metal. Fuel vapour can burn. Do the test outdoors, away from the open plug hole (the cylinder can spray fuel) and with no leaking fuel nearby. Never test spark on a flooded engine.

Test for spark on a bench engine or a known-good engine

Tools. Spark-plug socket, a known-good plug or a plug tester, insulated pliers or a clip, ear protection, eye protection.

  1. Make sure the lanyard key is out, and the fuel tap or hose is disconnected.
  2. Remove the plug cap and plug. Look at the plug (see the table).
  3. Refit the plug in its cap. Lay the plug body against clean bare metal on the engine, away from the plug hole. A clip or insulated pliers hold it in place.
  4. Put the lanyard key in. Pull the starter cord sharply (or turn the key on a safe engine).
  5. Look for a blue-white spark at the gap. Orange, weak or none means an ignition fault.
  6. Take the key out again. Repeat for each plug.
  7. Record which cylinders spark, how strong, and the plug condition.

If one cylinder has no spark: swap with a good plug; swap the plug cap; look for broken or rubbed wires, a loose connection, a corroded connector or a faulty coil. If no cylinder has spark: check the kill switch, lanyard and lock plate, wiring, and the battery. Coil and CDI resistance values: not verified. Measure a known-good engine of the same model with a multimeter, record the values, and compare with the faulty engine and with the dealer's data.

Compression

Low compression means a worn or damaged engine, and the plug or carburettor will not cure it. A compression test uses a compression gauge in the plug hole while the engine is cranked with all plugs out and the throttle open. Compression values for any engine: not verified. Teach it as a comparison: the cylinders of the same engine should be close to each other; a big difference points at a worn cylinder or ring. Record on a known-good engine and compare (general practice, not verified). A low reading ends the job: quote an engine rebuild or replacement, or send it to the dealer.

Where fuel injection fits

The Tohatsu 25/30 four-stroke has fuel injection (EFI), not a carburettor. A beginner does the checks in this book (fuel, filter, plugs, battery, water) on an EFI engine, and sends injector, sensor and computer faults to a dealer with the right tools.

Fuel sums

Use the Tohatsu two-stroke M40D2 ratios as an example (50:1 after break-in; 25:1 during break-in). For other makes, read the manual.

  1. How much oil is needed for 20 L of petrol at 50:1? At 25:1?
  2. An engine uses 12 L at 25:1 during break-in. How much oil?
  3. The premix price on 1 September 2026 is GH¢5.51 a litre. What does 25 L cost?
  4. A mechanic cleans a carburettor and finds the engine was run with oil that was never mixed in: why is that serious?

Fuel path and plug record

  1. Draw the fuel path of an engine you can see (at your centre or on a canoe) with every part labelled.
  2. Take out the plugs of one engine (with permission, engine cold, key out) and write a plug record: type, gap, colour and what it suggests.

Check yourself

  1. Name the order of the fuel path from tank to cylinder.
  2. Why do you never poke a carburettor jet with wire?
  3. Hold a plug cap by what part during a spark test, and why?
03

Unit 2 · Cooling system, water pump and overheating

An outboard has no radiator. The sea or river is its cooling system, and one small rubber impeller moves the water.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
2.1 Explain the cooling path traces water from the intake to the tell-tale
2.2 Diagnose overheating uses the checks in order and decides what to do
2.3 Replace an impeller follows a labelled sequence and records the job
2.4 Protect the engine flushes, avoids dry running and uses the warm-up

Range. Sea-water-cooled outboards, two-stroke and four-stroke. Evidence. Cooling-path sketch; overheating checklist; impeller job sheet; oral questions.

The cooling path

Water enters through the intake holes in the gear case, goes up to the water pump (a rubber impeller spinning in a cup), through passages around the cylinders, past a thermostat, and leaves through the exhaust and a small tell-tale (check) port that squirts a stream so you can see it is working. Water also lubricates the pump, so never run the engine dry: the impeller is destroyed very fast.

What the engine and the maker's manual say

  • Tohatsu 25/30 has a warning system: a continuous beep and lamp for engine over-speed, low oil pressure or water over-temperature, and the engine speed is limited. A start-up test gives one beep and the lamp for about 5 seconds.
  • Most outboards reduce rpm when they overheat; watch the gauge and listen for the horn.
  • Coarse particles (salt, sand, shell) wear the impeller blades or clog the thermostat.
  • Rubber impellers age even if unused ("dry rot"). Tohatsu says inspect each year and replace at least yearly depending on use; the M40D2 table puts impeller replacement at every 12 months.

What to do when no water comes from the tell-tale

  1. Stop the engine at once. Do not restart until fixed.
  2. Clear the tell-tale hole with a thin wire or a puff of air.
  3. Check the intake holes on the gear case for blockage: weed, plastic, a net or mud.
  4. If the intake is clear and there is still no water, the impeller probably needs replacing, or something is blocking the lower unit.
  5. If the thermostat is suspected (the engine runs hot but water flows), take the engine to the dealer, or remove and test the thermostat as taught by your trainer (general practice, not verified).

The two-stroke M40D2 lists overheating causes as too little cooling-water flow, a clogged or damaged pump, or a faulty thermostat.

Overheating checklist (use in this order)

  • Is the engine in water that is deep enough, with the intake fully under water?
  • Is anything wrapped around the intake or lower unit (plastic, rope, net)?
  • Does water come from the tell-tale? (If not, follow the list above.)
  • Is the right oil and ratio used (two-stroke) or the right oil level (four-stroke)?
  • Is the plug colour white or blistered (running lean)?
  • Has the impeller been changed in the last 12 months?
  • Are the propeller and rpm correct? (Too much load makes the engine work hard.)
  • If the problem comes back after all this, take the engine to a dealer.

Impeller replacement: the sequence

This is not in any free owner's manual we could read. The owner's manuals list it as a dealer job. The sequence below is our own general sequence. It is (general practice, not verified; follow the engine's workshop manual). Trainer to check it against a permitted workshop manual for your engine before you do the job for a customer.

Safety gate. Engine off. Lanyard key out. Plug caps off. Battery disconnected (negative lead first). Fuel disconnected. Propeller removed (or at least the engine certain not to turn). The motor secured vertical on a stand or on a transom with a safety rope. Never work under a tilted motor that is not locked.

Replace a water-pump impeller on a bench or stand engine

Tools and materials. Sockets and spanners for the engine, torque wrench, wooden block, drain tray, new impeller kit (impeller, gasket, seals, plate if needed), waterproof grease, a clean tray, a marker and a notebook, camera or phone, rags, gloves, eye protection.

  1. Do the safety gate above. Drain the gear oil first (see Unit 3) and look at it: milky means water is in the gear case, so stop and plan a seal repair.
  2. Remove the propeller and note the order of the parts (see Unit 3).
  3. Take photos of the gear-shift linkage, the bolts' positions and lengths, and any clips.
  4. Loosen the bolts that hold the lower unit to the driveshaft housing, and slide the lower unit down. Support it. Note the positions of the shift rod, the driveshaft and the water tube. Trainer to check whether the shift rod needs to be set in neutral first.
  5. Lift off the pump housing. Note exactly how the old impeller sits (which way the vanes bend).
  6. Pull the old impeller and its key (small drive key). Look for broken or missing vane pieces. Find them. A missing vane piece can block the cooling passage. Check the cup and the plate for scores.
  7. Clean the pump cup. Fit the new gasket, plate and seals from the kit.
  8. Smear a little waterproof grease on the inside of the new impeller (or as the kit says). Slide it on the shaft, and fit the key.
  9. Turn the driveshaft (if the maker says so) in the right direction while lowering the pump housing over the impeller so the vanes fold the right way. Trainer to check the direction for your engine.
  10. Refit the pump housing and the water tube. Make sure the tube enters its seal.
  11. Raise the lower unit to the driveshaft housing, matching the splines. Fit and tighten the bolts to the maker's torque. Use the torque in the manual for your engine.
  12. Refill the gear oil with new sealing washers. Refit the propeller with a new split pin (Unit 3).
  13. Test-run in the test tank following Unit 5. Look for water at the tell-tale.
  14. Write in your logbook: date, engine hours, model and the old impeller condition.

Check. Water flows from the tell-tale within a few seconds; temperature stays steady; no leaks; no strange noise.

Common mistakes. Putting the impeller in backwards; losing the key; letting the shaft turn the wrong way while lowering; forgetting a gasket; not removing broken vane pieces; running the engine dry on the bench; reusing the split pin.

Warm-up and flushing

The Tohatsu pre-season warm-up: 3 minutes in neutral, 5 minutes at slow speed, and 10 minutes at half throttle. After use in salt, brackish or dirty water, flush with fresh water. Some makers flush with the engine off through a flush port (Tohatsu, Honda), and Yamaha's page describes flushing while running; follow your own manual. Do not run the engine with the propeller fitted when flushing with a hose or in a test tank.

Hours and intervals

The Tohatsu 25/30 service table says plugs, gear oil and so on are due at 100 hours or 6 months, whichever comes first. An example canoe engine runs 6 hours a day, 5 days a week.

  1. How many hours does it run in a week?
  2. In how many weeks does it reach 100 hours? Does the 100 hours or the 6 months come first?
  3. How long is the full warm-up (3 + 5 + 10 minutes)?
  4. After 20 weeks, how many hours has the engine run? How many 100-hour services is that?

Cooling path and flush log

  1. Draw the cooling path of an engine and mark the intake, pump, thermostat and tell-tale.
  2. For one week, note every time a fishing engine near you is flushed (or not) after use, and write down what you see at its tell-tale.

Check yourself

  1. What do you do first when no water comes from the tell-tale?
  2. Why must you never run an outboard dry, even for a few seconds?
  3. Name two things you check on an old impeller.
04

Unit 3 · Lower unit, propeller, shear pin and gear oil

The lower unit is where the engine's turning is handed to the water. It is sealed, oil-filled and easily ruined by water, salt and a hard knock.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
3.1 Change gear oil drains, reads, refills and seals correctly
3.2 Remove and refit a propeller uses the safe steps and a new split pin
3.3 Judge a shear-pin or propeller fault explains the shear-pin job and when a prop is wrong
3.4 Check anodes and impact damage applies the two-thirds rule and the strike-an-object steps

Range. Outboards from small to about 40 hp; lower units and propellers. Evidence. Gear-oil job sheet; propeller job sheet; anode check; oral questions.

Gear oil: change and read

Use the oil grade and quantity from your own manual. Examples: Tohatsu 25/30 four-stroke: API GL-5, SAE 80-90, about 360 mL; Tohatsu M40D2: GL-5, SAE 80-90, 500 mL. Honda gear-case oil sheet: BF40D/50D 14.5 fl oz of GL-4 as printed on that sheet; the sheet lists GL-4 for some Hondas while Tohatsu says GL-5, so always follow your own manual.

Change the gear oil

Tools and materials. Correct oil (maker's grade), hand gear-oil pump with tube, drain tray, screwdriver or socket, torque wrench, new sealing washers or O-rings, rags, gloves, eye protection, a labelled sealed container for old oil, a stand or a secure transom mount.

Safety. Engine off, lanyard key out, plug caps off. The motor vertical and firmly secured. Do not work under a tilted motor unless it is locked.

  1. Put the tray under the lower unit.
  2. Remove the drain bolt (the lower one) first, then the level bolt (the upper one).
  3. Let the oil run out. Look and sniff. Milky = water got in. Black and burnt-smelling = a fault: have it checked.
  4. Wipe the magnet on the drain bolt. A little very fine metal dust is acceptable; metal chips are not.
  5. Fill from the bottom: pump oil in through the drain hole until it flows out of the level hole and the bubbles stop.
  6. Fit the level bolt with a new sealing washer. Remove the pump and quickly fit the drain bolt with a new washer. Tighten to the maker's torque (Honda's sheet gives 6.5 Nm for most models listed, and 3.5 Nm for the BF200A/225A; use the number in your manual).
  7. Wipe the unit clean. Put the old oil in a sealed container for a recycling point. A used-oil disposal point in the Western Region is not verified: ask the dealer or the municipal assembly.
  8. Record the date, hours, oil quantity and what the old oil looked like.

Check. No oil weeps from either bolt after an hour. Oil colour recorded.

Common mistakes. Filling from the top; reusing washers; forgetting the level bolt; wrong oil grade; overtightening a bolt in aluminium; leaving the motor tilted with no lock.

If the oil is milky, do not run the engine. Water has got past a seal. The usual causes are a worn propeller-shaft seal, fishing line or net wrapped round the shaft cutting the seal, or a worn driveshaft seal (general practice, not verified). Fix the cause, not just the oil: the lower unit needs strip-down, a new seal kit and a pressure test, so quote this as a bigger job or send it to a dealer. Water in engine oil (milky) means do not run it and consult a dealer.

Remove and refit a propeller (nut and split pin)

Propeller off and on (Tohatsu method, a labelled example)

Tools and materials. Socket for the propeller nut, wooden block, pliers, split-pin puller or side-cutters, a new split pin, waterproof grease, torque wrench, gloves (propeller edges are thin and sharp).

  1. Plug caps off, lanyard key out, shift to neutral.
  2. Put a wooden block between a blade and the anti-ventilation plate to stop the propeller turning.
  3. Remove the split pin, then the nut and washer. Note the order.
  4. Pull off the propeller and the thrust holder. Look at the shaft for fishing line, which can cut the seal. Remove all line.
  5. Apply waterproof grease to the shaft.
  6. Refit the thrust holder, the propeller, the stopper, the washer and the nut. Tighten to the maker's torque (25 Nm on the Tohatsu 25/30; use the number in your manual).
  7. Line up a nut groove with the shaft hole. Fit a new split pin and bend its legs apart. Never reuse the split pin. Never fit a propeller without the thrust holder.
  8. Remove the block. Look at the blades: bent or worn blades reduce performance and cause engine trouble.

Check. Split pin fitted and bent. Nut tight. Blades straight. All fishing line removed.

Choosing and checking the propeller

A propeller must let the engine reach its full-throttle rpm range under normal load. Examples from the plate: Tohatsu 25: 5,000-6,000 rpm; 30: 5,250-6,250 rpm; M40D2: 5,000-5,700 rpm. Use the range on your engine's plate or in its manual.

A tachometer (rpm meter) on a full-throttle run with the usual load tells you the answer. If the rpm is below the range, the load or propeller is too heavy ("too much bite") and the engine overworks; if above, the propeller is too light or is ventilating (sucking air) or cavitating (general practice, not verified; ask a dealer for the right size). Cavitation and ventilation can also come from a bent or damaged propeller or a transom that is too high or too low. Do not copy another canoe's propeller: its engine, weight and fishing method may be different.

Shear pin (small outboards): trainer to check

Trainer to check. Many very small outboards use a shear pin: a small pin through the propeller hub and shaft that is meant to break on impact to protect the propeller, shaft and gears. The shear-pin replacement steps were not found in any manual we read. A brass shear-pin kit for Mercury 2-3.3 hp two-strokes and 2-3.5 hp four-strokes is sold. Teach the job from the learner's own engine manual: use only the exact pin from the maker, never a bolt, nail or hard steel pin (a stronger pin means a broken gearbox instead of a broken pin; general practice, not verified).

Shear-pin job: how to run the lesson safely

  1. The trainer finds the manual page for the engine in use and reads it with the class.
  2. Follow the propeller-removal safety steps above (plug caps off, key out, neutral, wooden block).
  3. Look at the pin and its hole. Record: pin type, how it broke (clean snap or bent), what hit the propeller.
  4. Fit the maker's pin by the manual's method. If the manual is not available, do not fit a replacement; tell the owner to get the correct pin.
  5. Record the job and advise the owner to carry spare pins and a split pin in the spare kit.

Anodes, impact and a submerged motor

  • The sacrificial anode protects the engine from electrolytic corrosion. Replace it when it has eroded to less than about two-thirds of its original size (eroded more than one third). Never paint or grease an anode. Retighten the anode bolt at each inspection. Honda also says do not paint or coat anodes.
  • Hit an underwater object? Stop the engine at once, check the controls, the gear case and the transom, return slowly, and have the motor checked.
  • Submerged motor: do not start it. Wash with fresh water, drain water and oil, take out the plugs and drain the cylinders by pulling the starter, change the oil and filter, spray oil into the cylinders, and take it to a dealer; the oil may need changing again.

Gear oil, anodes and rpm

  1. A workshop services 7 Tohatsu 25/30 four-strokes (360 mL each) and 5 Tohatsu M40D2 two-strokes (500 mL each) in a week. How many millilitres of gear oil is that? How many 1-litre bottles must it buy (no leftovers kept)?
  2. A new anode is 60 mm long. At what length must it be replaced (the two-thirds rule)?
  3. A Tohatsu 30 runs full throttle at 4,700 rpm. Is that inside the plate range of 5,250-6,250? What does it suggest?

Gear-oil and propeller record

  1. Look at an engine at the landing beach (ask the owner). Without removing anything, write down: propeller condition, whether a split pin is visible, anode condition.
  2. Write what you would say to the owner in plain language (no jargon).

Check yourself

  1. Which bolt do you remove first when draining gear oil, and how do you fill?
  2. What does milky gear oil tell you?
  3. When must an anode be replaced?
05

Unit 4 · Electrical: battery, charging, starting, kill switch and multimeter

A flat battery and a loose terminal cause more "dead engines" than any broken part.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
4.1 Handle a battery safely follows the lead order and the acid and gas precautions
4.2 Use a multimeter measures DC voltage correctly and records it
4.3 Check charging and starting finds a low battery, a charging fault or a loose cable
4.4 Check the kill switch and fuse finds a stop-switch fault and replaces a fuse with the right rating

Range. 12 V systems on electric-start outboards; stop-switch and lanyard on all engines. Evidence. Multimeter record; battery check sheet; kill-switch check; oral questions.

Battery safety

  • The battery holds sulphuric acid. Wear eye protection and gloves; flush skin or eyes with water if splashed.
  • It gives off explosive hydrogen gas, so charge in a ventilated place with no sparks and no smoking, and keep it away from the fuel tank.
  • Disconnect the negative (-) lead first. Connect the positive (+) lead first.
  • Keep the battery in a secured box away from spray; the recommended battery for the Tohatsu 25/30 is 12 V 70 Ah. Use the size in your own manual.

The multimeter

A multimeter measures volts (pressure), amps (flow) and ohms (resistance). For battery work you use only DC volts (a straight line with dots on the dial, "V ⎓").

Measure battery voltage with a multimeter

Tools. Multimeter, a 12 V battery, clean rag, eye protection and gloves.

  1. Turn the dial to DC volts and a range above 12 V (for example "20").
  2. Put the black probe in the COM socket and the red probe in the volts socket.
  3. Touch the red probe to the battery positive (+) terminal and the black to negative (-). Both probes must touch clean metal.
  4. Read the number. Write it down.
  5. Do this at rest (engine off, no load for a while). Then do it with the engine running at no more than 2,500 rpm.
  6. Record both readings, the date and the battery's age.

Check. At rest: 12-13 V. Running: 13-15 V. Never put the probes across the battery with the dial on amps or ohms. That can damage the meter (general practice, not verified).

What the readings mean (general practice, not verified; the 12-13 V and 13-15 V ranges are Yamaha's):

Reading Meaning
At rest 12-13 V A healthy battery
At rest below about 12 V Low or old battery: charge, then re-test
Running 13-15 V The charging system is working
Running stays near rest voltage No charging: look at the charging coil, wires or regulator
Running far above 15 V Over-charging: a regulator fault

A hydrometer reading is another check: Tohatsu's table gives about 1.280 specific gravity as fully charged and 1.120 as discharged. Charge a flat battery in a ventilated place, and recharge a stored one every month.

Starting problems

Electric-start engines will not crank for these causes: a weak or flat battery, loose or corroded terminals, a bad earth or cable, a faulty starter or solenoid, not in neutral, a blown fuse, a stop switch problem or a bad key switch.

Starting circuit check (in order)

  1. Lanyard key in and lock plate fitted; the gear lever in neutral.
  2. Look at the terminals: loose, green or white crust, or hot. Clean with a wire brush; refit; tighten.
  3. Measure the battery at rest (see above). If below about 12 V, charge it and re-test.
  4. Turn the key: listen. A click with no crank often means a weak battery or bad connection; nothing at all points to the key switch, fuse or stop switch; a fast clicking is usually a flat battery (general practice, not verified).
  5. Measure the battery voltage while cranking. If it drops a long way, the battery is weak or a cable is poor (general practice, not verified; learn the normal drop on a known-good engine and record it).
  6. Check the fuse (see below).
  7. If the battery, cables and fuse are all good and the starter still does not turn, send the starter or solenoid to a dealer or an auto-electrician.
  8. Record each reading and the final fix.

Fuse

If a fuse blows: disconnect the negative lead first, replace it only with the same rating, and find out why it blew. A bigger fuse is a fire risk.

Kill switch, lock plate and lanyard

The emergency stop switch and lanyard stop the engine if the operator falls overboard. The lanyard must be attached to the operator. Too short a pull may cut the engine on a normal movement, so Tohatsu's lanyard is coiled at 500 mm and extends to 1,300 mm. The engine will not start without the lock plate in place, and a stop-switch short circuit, a missing lock plate, a ground fault or a wire break are all listed causes of a no-start.

Test a kill switch

  1. Fit the lock plate; try to start a safe engine (fuel disconnected): the starter should turn (electric start) or the engine should be able to start.
  2. Remove the lock plate: the engine must not start or must stop.
  3. With the multimeter on ohms (or continuity beep) and the engine off, measure across the switch wires with the lock plate in and out. Record both readings on a known-good engine; compare with the faulty one (values: not verified for any engine; there is no number in the manuals we read).
  4. Look for rubbed wires, a pinched wire in the cowl, and corroded plugs.
  5. Never bypass or tape a kill switch. If it is faulty, fix it.

Never bypass the stop switch or lanyard. The lanyard saves lives. Never tell an owner to remove it because it is "annoying".

Charging system

On a pull-start engine with a small charging coil, you may measure only voltage. Charging-coil resistance, regulator output and CDI values: not verified for any engine. Measure the values on a known-good engine of the same model, write them in your logbook, and use them for comparison. Never guess.

Battery maths and readings

  1. A 70 Ah battery is 50% flat. Using a 7 A charger, about how many hours of charging would it need, ignoring losses? (Example; a real charge takes longer.)
  2. A battery reads 12.6 V at rest and 12.5 V with the engine running at 2,000 rpm. What does this suggest?
  3. A battery reads 14.1 V with the engine running at 2,000 rpm. Is it in the normal range?
  4. A fuse of 15 A has blown. A customer has a 30 A fuse. Should you fit it?

Voltage log

Measure and record the voltage of a battery (a car, a motorcycle or a boat battery, with the owner's permission) at rest on 3 different days. Note if it dropped. Write down what you think this means.

Check yourself

  1. In what order do you disconnect and connect a battery?
  2. What is the normal running voltage Yamaha gives?
  3. What can you never do to a kill switch?
06

Unit 5 · Fault-cause tables, systematic diagnosis and safe test running

A good mechanic does not guess. They look, ask, test, change one thing, test again and write it down.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
5.1 Use a diagnosis routine asks, looks, tests one thing at a time and records
5.2 Use fault-cause tables finds the likely causes for a symptom and orders the checks
5.3 Test-run safely follows the safety gates and records the run
5.4 Know when to stop refers to a dealer when the fault is beyond the checks

Range. Two-stroke and four-stroke outboards; no start, hard start, rough running, no power, overheating. Evidence. Fault-finding record for two faults; test-run record; oral questions.

The six-step routine

  1. Ask. When did it stop? What was it doing? Cold or hot? What fuel? When was it last serviced? Has it hit anything or been in salt water?
  2. Look and smell. Leaks, wet spots, a fuel smell, burnt smell, loose wires, a damaged propeller, corrosion.
  3. Test the easy things first. Lanyard key and lock plate, gear in neutral, fuel in the tank, vent screw open, hose connected properly, primer bulb firm.
  4. Test by system. Fuel, then spark, then air and compression, then water, then electrical (as taught in Units 1-4).
  5. Change one thing at a time, and test after each. If you change five things you will not know which one fixed it.
  6. Write down what you found and what you did. Take photos of the old part before you throw it away.

The "fuel, spark, air or compression, water" order is our teaching design, not a single manufacturer's rule (general practice, not verified). The causes in the tables come from the Tohatsu manuals.

Table 1: Will not start or hard to start

Check (in this order) What to do
1. Lanyard key and lock plate in place; gear in neutral Engines will not start otherwise
2. Fuel in the tank, vent open, hose connected with the right connector, primer bulb firm Fix the fault; squeeze the bulb until firm
3. Water or dirt in the filter cup Drain and clean; replace the filter
4. Plug: wet, dry, sooty? Spark? Unit 1
5. Battery 12-13 V; terminals clean (electric start) Unit 4
6. Carburettor gum, flooding, poor adjustment; ignition timing; throttle link Bench-clean a carburettor; dealer for timing and adjustment
7. Compression (Level 3 or dealer) Low compression means engine repair

Four-stroke extras: low engine oil, clogged oil filter, low compression, not in neutral, ignition key switch, starter motor or solenoid.

Table 2: Overheating or no water from the tell-tale

Check Cause and fix
1. Intake holes Blocked by weed, plastic, mud: clear
2. Tell-tale hole Blocked: clear with wire or air
3. Impeller Worn, cracked, missing vanes: replace (Unit 2)
4. Thermostat Stuck or clogged: dealer or test as taught
5. Fuel mix and oil level Too little oil or too lean a mix can overheat (general practice, not verified)
6. Propeller and load Overloaded engine runs hot (general practice, not verified)

Table causes in the Tohatsu manual: too little cooling-water flow, a clogged or damaged pump, a faulty thermostat.

Table 3: Rough idle, stalls, hesitates

Same fuel and spark causes as Table 1, plus: a broken recirculation pipe, a faulty thermostat, a damaged or bent propeller, a transom set too high or too low, an unbalanced load, wrong throttle-link or ignition timing.

Table 4: No power, cannot reach full rpm

Check Cause
Propeller wrong for the load Full-throttle rpm outside the plate range
Damaged propeller, cavitation Replace or repair
Heavy load, a dirty hull, a transom set wrong Reduce load; check mounting height
Clogged fuel system or carburettor Units 1 and 2
Worn engine, low compression Dealer
Overheating protection limiting speed Fix cooling

Table 5: Water in the fuel or oil

Symptom What to do
Starts then dies, misfires; water in the cup Drain until clean; clean the tank and filters; new filter
Milky engine oil Do not run; dealer
Milky gear oil Do not run; seal repair (Unit 3)

A worked example of a diagnosis (example)

A canoe owner says: "It was running well, then died and will not restart." Your steps: Ask (hit nothing, premix fuel, last service 4 months ago). Look (fuel smell near the carburettor). Easy checks (key and lock plate in; tank has fuel; vent open). Fuel: the primer bulb is soft and will not firm up: air is entering the fuel line. You find a cracked connector at the engine end. Change one thing: fit a new connector. Test: the bulb firms up; the engine starts. Write down: "Air leak at connector; replaced; test-run 10 minutes OK." The cheap part and a quick check saved a long strip-down.

Safe test running

Test-run gates (our rules).

  • Outdoors, or in a very well-ventilated open shed. Never in a closed workshop: exhaust carries carbon monoxide that can kill.
  • Lanyard attached to the person at the controls.
  • In a test tank: water at least 10 cm above the anti-ventilation plate; for the flush and tank test, remove the propeller.
  • Ear protection: the Tohatsu 25/30 four-stroke is 79.2 dB(A) at the operator, the M40D2 two-stroke 91.2 dB(A), so the two-stroke is 12 dB(A) louder. That hearing protection is advised is general practice, not verified.
  • Fuel tank away from the engine; no spills; extinguisher close.
  • Nobody stands near the propeller. If you run the engine on the canoe in the water, shift to neutral and stop the engine when anyone is near or in the water.
  • Never leave a running engine alone.

Test run and record

  1. Pre-start: fuel quantity, no leaks, lanyard on, plugs fitted and tight, gear in neutral, water supply connected or the test tank filled to level.
  2. Start. Check the tell-tale gives water within a few seconds. If not, stop at once.
  3. Warm up: 3 minutes in neutral, then 5 slow, then 10 at half throttle.
  4. Listen and look for smoke, leaks, a strange noise and a hot smell.
  5. If the job needs a full-throttle rpm check, do it on the water with the propeller fitted and a tachometer, not in the tank.
  6. Stop the engine; wait; check for leaks again (fuel, oil, water).
  7. Write the test-run record: date, engine, hours, time run, rpm if measured, what you saw. Owner signs.

A new or rebuilt engine follows the maker's break-in table. The Tohatsu table: idle 1-10 minutes, under half throttle to 2 hours, under three-quarters throttle to 3 hours, about 4,000 rpm to 10 hours, full throttle only after 10 hours; the break-in must be in the water under load. Use the table in your engine's manual.

Keep a fault log. A written list of every fault you meet shows you which causes are common. After 20 jobs you may find that 40% were fuel, 25% spark, 20% water and 15% other (an example). That tells you what spares to stock.

Fault log maths

Your fault log for 20 jobs (example): fuel 8, spark 5, water or cooling 4, other 3.

  1. What percentage was each?
  2. Which two causes together give more than half the jobs?
  3. A test run needs a warm-up of 3, 5 and 10 minutes. After that you run 12 minutes at the working speed. How long is the whole run?
  4. The noise difference between a 79.2 dB(A) and a 91.2 dB(A) engine is how many dB(A)?

Two faults, written up

With a trainer or an owner's permission, find two faults on any engine using the six-step routine, and write them up as in the worked example.

Check yourself

  1. Why change only one thing at a time?
  2. How deep must the water be over the anti-ventilation plate in a test tank?
  3. Why must a test run never happen in a closed workshop?
07

Unit 6 · Quoting, parts sourcing, records and warranty; canoe registration and premix rules

A repair is not finished until the customer understands what was done, what it cost and what you promise.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
6.1 Quote a job adds parts, labour and a margin and gives a written quote
6.2 Source parts tells genuine, clone and used parts apart and keeps a price record
6.3 Keep records writes a job card, an engine record and a parts list
6.4 Give a warranty writes a clear and honest promise
6.5 Know the rules explains the canoe card and premix rules and what is not known

Range. Small repair jobs for canoe owners and boat owners. Evidence. Quote; job card; price survey; oral questions.

Quoting a job

A quote has four lines: parts, labour, small items (washers, grease, rags) and your margin. Write it down. Get the customer to agree before you start, and take a deposit for parts (a half is a common choice). If you find more faults, stop and tell the customer before you add cost.

Example quote (all numbers are examples, not real prices):

Item Cost (GH¢)
3 spark plugs at 18 54
Gear oil, 1 L 45
Gasket and washer kit 12
Impeller kit 150
Fuel filter 35
Parts total 296
Parts with 25% added 370
Labour, 3 hours at 40 120
Quote to customer 490
Deposit, half 245

Quote it

  1. Check the quote above: the parts add to 296; 25% added makes 370; labour 3 × 40 = 120; total?
  2. A customer wants only a plug change: 3 plugs at 18, 30% added on the parts, and 1 hour of labour at 40. What is the price?
  3. A job costs GH¢490 and you ask for half now. A customer pays GH¢245. How much is left to pay on collection?
  4. The premix price was GH¢24.80 a gallon on 1 September 2026. What is the price of 70 gallons? What is the gallon in litres (24.80 ÷ 5.51)?

Parts sourcing

  • No source for Takoradi parts shops or GH¢ prices for plugs, impellers, gear oil or propellers was found. Do a price survey (homework) rather than trust any number.
  • Yamaha's agent in Ghana is Japan Motors Trading Co (JMTC), with a Takoradi branch among its branches; whether the Takoradi branch stocks outboard parts is not verified. Suzuki's Ghana distributor CFAO Motors delivered more than 1,000 Suzuki outboards in 2020. The GoAfrica directory lists "marine engines" firms, with parts and propellers, including coverage of Takoradi. Do not name a shop you have not visited.
  • Ask for the engine model and serial number before you order a part. Check the part number against the maker's list. Take the old part with you.
  • Keep a spare-parts kit of the cheap, fast-moving parts: plugs, gear oil, split pins, fuel filters, primer bulbs, washers and gaskets, impeller kits, propeller nuts. This is our suggestion for a small stock, based on the faults in Unit 5 (general practice, not verified).
  • Genuine or compatible part, new or used: tell the customer which you fitted, and put it on the job card. The customer decides.

Job cards and records

  • Date; customer name and phone; canoe name and landing site
  • Engine make, model, serial number and hours (if shown)
  • The customer's complaint in their words
  • What you found, what you did, parts fitted (with prices)
  • Test run result and the next service date
  • Customer's signature (or tick) and your warranty promise

Why hours matter. Honda says commercial users should log engine hours to set service intervals. Keep an engine history card for each regular customer: it helps you to see repeated faults and to plan next service.

Warranty

Write one short, honest promise on the job card, for example: "Parts fitted by me are guaranteed for 30 days against failure from my work. This does not cover damage from misuse, salt water, bad fuel or hitting an object." The 30 days is an example. Consumer-protection rules for repairs in Ghana: not verified. Never promise what you cannot do, and never say a fault cannot return.

Canoe registration and premix rules (Ghana)

What is verified.

  • The Fisheries Commission issues the Canoe Identification Card (CIC): an embossed card with a QR code readable on a phone app; it shows the canoe's name, length, fishing village, gear type, whether it is motorised, and issue and expiry dates. It is valid six years and renewed every three years. It is checked during naval patrols and when premix is allocated. The programme was reported with a "no card, no sea" deadline of 1 January 2021 (as reported in 2020).
  • The 2015 vessel registration regulations (L.I. 1968) exclude canoes as defined in the Fisheries Act 2002.
  • Premix is subsidised fuel for artisanal fishing outboards. The official price from 1 September 2026 was GH¢5.51 a litre and GH¢24.80 a gallon. A landing beach committee that charges above the approved price faces, as reported, a penalty of up to two years' prison, 2,000 penalty units or both. The secretariat line reported in May 2026 was +233 55 442 0970. Subsidy: the NPA says up to 50%, price reviewed quarterly.
  • Ethanol and four-stroke fuel: the four-stroke manual says E0-E10 only. A four-stroke engine must not run on premix (our inference from the manual; not a Ghana rule).

What is not verified.

  • The fee and documents for a CIC; any rule on engine registration or horsepower limits for canoes; any rule from the Ghana Maritime Authority for canoes at sea. The GMA's 2026 statements concerned inland waters and a proposed lifejacket rule. Ghana's status under the ILO Work in Fishing Convention is not verified.
  • The official oil ratio and quality control of premix, and Ghana's petrol ethanol content.
  • Who may sell fuel or premix. Do not sell fuel or premix unless you have checked the rules with the NPA; it is not part of this trade (not verified).

What a mechanic should do. Ask a customer for the canoe card number on the job card if they have one. Advise on correct fuel, but do not give or sell premix. Never advise mixing pump petrol and diesel: reports say fishers do this when premix runs short, and it can destroy an engine. Do not repeat rumours or name individuals.

Quote, job card and price survey

  1. Write a full quote for a service (plugs, gear oil, filter, impeller) using your own price survey, with a deposit.
  2. Fill in a job card for a bench engine, including a test-run record and a short warranty.
  3. Visit three shops (or phone them) and record the prices and dates of five parts. Do not use shop names you have not visited.
  4. Write a half-page note to a customer explaining in simple words why premix is two-stroke fuel only.

Price survey

Visit three shops that sell outboard parts. For five parts (for example spark plug, 1 L gear oil, impeller kit, fuel filter, split pins), record the price, brand, and date. Work out the average price of each.

Check yourself

  1. What four lines are on a quote?
  2. What does the Canoe Identification Card show, and how long is it valid?
  3. Can a four-stroke engine run on premix?
08

Unit 7 · Location, small business ideas, marketing and access

There are thousands of outboard motors on the coast. Their owners need a mechanic they trust, near the landing beach.

Competency standard

Learning outcome Performance criteria — the trainee…
7.1 Choose a location names settings in the Western Region that give good returns and why
7.2 Plan a small business prices a service and works out break-even
7.3 Market yourself uses WhatsApp Business, Google Business Profile, signage and referrals
7.4 Include everyone plans for customers and workers with disabilities

Range. A mobile mechanic, a service bay or a parts counter. Evidence. Business plan; break-even sums; oral questions.

What the market looks like

  • Many coastal communities received subsidised outboard motors: for example, the Western Region got 300 of the first 1,300 in an older report (the date was not captured), and Jomoro received 58 Yamaha 40 hp motors. Suzuki's Ghana distributor delivered more than 1,000 outboards.
  • The Canoe and Fishing Gear Owners Association of Ghana reported over 30 faulty-outboard-at-sea cases in the Volta, Greater Accra, Central and Western regions after fishing resumed on 1 August 2023. It blamed poor maintenance and fishing farther out, and advised servicing at least every six months and repairing small faults while the engine still runs.
  • The number of motors at Akwidaa, labour rates and market prices were not found. Ask the chief fisherman or the canoe owners' group, and use your own price survey.
  • A diploma route also exists: the Regional Maritime University in Accra has a Marine Engine Mechanic programme; intake details are not verified.

Location settings that give good returns

  • A landing beach with many canoes (such as Akwidaa and other beaches on the coast): customers are close, the need is regular
  • A spot on the road to the beach or at the junction, with room to park a canoe engine and a trolley
  • A small workshop in Takoradi, Sekondi or Axim with a dry bench, a test tank, power and a lockable store
  • Near a fuel and parts supplier, and near a welder or canoe carpenter who can refer customers
  • A mobile service: you carry a small tool bag, spare plugs, gear oil, filters and an impeller kit to the beach, so the canoe owner does not lose fishing days
  • Not in a closed shed with no ventilation, and not next to open flame, cooking fires or a fuel store

Business ideas and ingenuity

  • Mobile mechanic: a bag of tools and a motorbike or tricycle, visiting beaches on set days
  • Service bay: a small workshop at a landing site or in town for bigger jobs
  • Parts counter: plugs, gear oil, filters, split pins, primer bulbs, propeller nuts
  • Service contract: an agreed service plan for a group of canoe owners (aligned with the advice to service at least every six months)
  • Simple fault clinic: a "free fuel and plug check" day at the beach to win customers
  • Training: coach a younger apprentice or teach a short class for canoe owners on daily checks (advise only; do not give safety training you are not qualified for)
  • Lifejacket and safety kit sales: the Ghana Maritime Authority sold lifejackets at GH¢250 each (GH¢20 rebate for operators buying more than five) under a 2026 programme. Check current terms before you offer them
  • Premix handling advice only: never sell fuel without a licence (rules not verified)

(These models are our own design, based on the demand shown above; they are not sourced business data.)

Money maths: break-even (example)

Suppose your fixed costs for a month are: data and phone GH¢60, transport to beaches GH¢240, tool replacement GH¢100, and a small market or beach fee GH¢40 (all examples). That is GH¢440 a month. Each job earns, on average, labour GH¢80 and parts margin GH¢30 = GH¢110. To break even you need 440 ÷ 110 = 4 jobs a month. If you do 22 jobs, your profit is 22 × 110 − 440 = GH¢1,980 (before tax; all numbers are examples). Business registration, tax and accounting are in Level 3.

Plan your month

  1. Fixed costs are GH¢500 a month (example). The average earning per job is GH¢125. How many jobs do you need to break even?
  2. You do 18 jobs in the month. What is your profit?
  3. A parts counter earns GH¢18 on average per customer. How many customers must buy to cover GH¢500?
  4. A service contract for 12 canoes is GH¢60 per canoe per service (example). What is the total for one service round? For two rounds a year?

Market yourself

  • Use WhatsApp Business: a business profile with your hours, address, a catalogue of services and automatic greeting and away messages. Send photos (with permission) of before and after.
  • Set up a free Google Business Profile so people searching nearby can find you; verification can be by phone, email, video call or a postcard that takes about 14 days.
  • Put up a clear signboard: "Outboard motor repair and service," your name, phone and services in plain words and local languages.
  • Referrals: ask satisfied owners to tell others. Give a small bag of spare plugs or a free check to a canoe-owner group leader (it is your decision).
  • A portfolio: keep a book of job cards and photos (with permission).
  • Be honest. Never say you are a dealer-trained or certified mechanic if you are not. Do not claim a guarantee you cannot meet.

Accessibility

The Persons with Disability Act, 2006 (Act 715) is the law on disability rights. It has employment provisions, including training and tools support for people unemployed more than two years, and bans discrimination at work. A 2026 press item says private-sector incentives are not yet working as intended. Exact section numbers were not verified. Reports said the Assemblies' disability share would rise to 5% from 2026; this was not verified for this book. Reports say public places still do not follow the Act fully. Ask your Assembly about help.

Tasks that may suit a person with a disability (our suggestions, not sourced; confirm with the person and an occupational therapist):

  • Parts counter, quoting, records and bookkeeping: workable seated, with a raised or lowered counter
  • Bench work: carburettor cleaning, plug, filter and impeller work, voltage tests with the multimeter: workable seated at a bench of the right height
  • Coaching and phone work: booking jobs by WhatsApp
  • Heavy lifting and beach work: needs a partner, a hoist or a trolley

Adjustments that help: a bench at seated height; tool holders and magnetic trays; good light; picture checklists and large-print job cards; voice notes for people with low vision; written or visual signals instead of calling out for workers who are deaf; ear protection; short written steps. Do not state legal duties beyond the Act without checking it. Training for workers with disabilities should be given in a way each person can follow.

My business plan

  1. Choose a model (mobile mechanic, service bay, parts counter, or contract). Choose a location near you and say why.
  2. Write the fixed monthly costs, the price of your three most common jobs, and the number of jobs to break even.
  3. Write the text of your WhatsApp Business greeting and a signboard sketch.
  4. Add one accessibility step for a customer or staff member.
  5. Say which jobs you will not do (for example, ignition timing without the maker's data).

Landing beach visit

Visit a landing beach (with permission). Count the engines you see, note the makes and sizes, and ask two owners what they spend on repair and how they find a mechanic. Do not photograph people without asking.

Check yourself

  1. Name two good locations for an outboard repair business.
  2. How do you work out break-even jobs?
  3. Name one adjustment that helps a worker who is deaf.
09

Glossary

Term Meaning
Competent / Not Yet Competent The two possible results of a CBT assessment
Carburettor The part that mixes air and petrol
Float and needle valve They keep the fuel level steady in the float bowl
Jet A small hole that measures fuel into the air
Choke / primer A way to give extra fuel for starting
Gum and varnish Sticky deposits left by stale fuel
Spark gap The small gap on the plug where the spark jumps
Compression The pressure the cylinder holds; low means wear
Tell-tale The small stream of water that shows the cooling pump is working
Impeller The rubber wheel in the water pump
Thermostat A valve that keeps the engine at the right temperature
Gear oil The oil in the lower unit
Thrust holder The part fitted behind the propeller
Split pin A pin through the nut that stops it coming off; use a new one each time
Shear pin A small pin meant to break on impact to protect the engine
Anode A metal piece that corrodes first, to protect the engine
Ventilation / cavitation Air or vapour bubbles around the propeller that lose its grip
Multimeter A meter that measures volts, amps and ohms
DC volts Direct current voltage, as in a battery
Lock plate / lanyard The stop-switch key and cord that stops the engine if the operator falls
Premix Subsidised fuel for artisanal fishing engines
CIC Canoe Identification Card
Job card A written record of a repair
Break-even The number of jobs needed to cover the fixed costs
10

Logbook

Copy these pages into an exercise book. Your logbook is part of your assessment evidence.

  • Unit 1: fuel-path sketch; carburettor job sheet; plug record; spark test record
  • Unit 2: cooling-path sketch; overheating checklist; impeller job sheet; flush log
  • Unit 3: gear-oil job sheet; propeller job sheet; anode check; shear-pin notes
  • Unit 4: multimeter record; battery check sheet; kill-switch check; voltage log
  • Unit 5: two fault write-ups; test-run record; fault log
  • Unit 6: quote; job card; price survey; premix note
  • Unit 7: business plan; break-even sums; landing beach visit notes
  • Every homework, dated
11

Self-check quiz

  1. Name the fuel path from the tank to the cylinder.
  2. Why must you never poke a carburettor jet with wire?
  3. How do you hold a plug cap during a spark test?
  4. What do you do first if no water comes from the tell-tale?
  5. Why must an outboard never be run without water?
  6. Which gear-oil bolt do you remove first, and how do you fill the lower unit?
  7. What does milky gear oil mean?
  8. When must an anode be replaced?
  9. In what order do you disconnect and connect a battery?
  10. What readings does Yamaha give for a battery at rest and with the engine running?
  11. How deep must the water be over the anti-ventilation plate in a test tank, and what must be off the engine?
  12. Can a four-stroke engine run on premix?
12

Further reading and sources

Best next reads: your own engine's owner's manual (Tohatsu and Honda manuals are free from the makers; Mercury manuals are free by serial number); a licensed dealer's workshop manual; the FAO fishing-safety site; the Fisheries Commission; a local dealer for hands-on training.

What this module does not cover: engine rebuilds, ignition timing and carburettor adjustment (dealer jobs), fuel-injection diagnostics, hoisting and mounting an engine on a transom, beach launching procedure (no source found), business registration, tax and accounting (Level 3), and any make not read here (use the maker's manual).

Every source used in this manual is listed, with links, in the Teacher Copy.

One application of the Cold-Start Learning Kit, which stays general-purpose and can build a guide on any topic in any field. Written in CTVET format; not a CTVET curriculum.