Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Basics Level 2

Who it is for. People who have finished Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Basics (Level 1), or who can show the same skills. National Proficiency II covers varied work, mostly routine, under limited supervision.

Bridge from Level 1: what you already know

Level 1 did not take you deep into electrical component testing, the full defrost circuit, installation awareness, commercial equipment, quoting and warranties, e-waste rules, or the route to certification. Level 2 does.

How the module works

Each unit has learning outcomes, performance criteria, the range and the evidence your assessor needs. You are judged Competent or Not Yet Competent. Each unit ends with a three-question Check yourself, and the book ends with a 12-question quiz. About 70% of the time is practical.

Prices and numbers. Prices come from classified adverts and directories on the dates shown. They are asking prices, not guarantees. Numbers marked example are made up for practice. Test values for parts (for example, "normal overload reading 0.1–0.3 ohm") come from one repairer's website and are typical values only: always check against the part, the nameplate and the maker's manual.

Competency standard

Range. Domestic fridges and freezers; split AC indoor and outdoor units (bench or isolated). Evidence. Component test sheet; observation of the discharge routine; oral questions.

1.1 Safe testing: the routine you never skip

1. Switch off at the socket and unplug. For a split AC, switch off at the wall isolator or breaker, then prove it dead with a non-contact voltage tester or the multimeter.
2. Take a photo of all wires before you remove anything.
3. Let hot parts cool. The compressor and relay are hot after running. Wait at least ten minutes before reading a protector that was just working.
4. Discharge every capacitor. Unplugging does not make a capacitor safe. It can hold a dangerous charge for a long time. Use a bleed resistor of about 10 kOhm with insulated leads; another guide says 10–20 kOhm and at least 5 W. Hold the leads across the two terminals for a few seconds. Then set the meter to DC volts and check it reads close to zero. Do not short a capacitor with a screwdriver. A trade article warns against it.
5. Wear dry clothes and insulated tools. Keep the bench dry. Use an RCD (residual-current device) on the bench socket: this is general practice, and whether RCDs are required on benches in Ghana was not verified.
6. Change a part only for the same specification as the old part or the nameplate.

1.2 The meter: three settings you need

"OL" or "1" on the screen means open (infinite resistance).

1.3 Testing each part: what normal looks like

The values below come from one repair technician's website. Use them as typical values. The maker's manual and the number printed on the part come first.

(Source for the table: AC Service Tech.) On many modern fridges the overload and relay are one plug-on part. Test it as one and fit the exact same model. A new relay does not always fix a no-cool fridge.

Parts the table does not give numbers for. For a thermostat, a defrost heater, a defrost thermostat, a fan motor and a temperature sensor, the right readings change with the model. Find them in the maker's manual or the service sheet. The method is the same: isolate the part, set the meter, read, write it down, compare. A thermostat should show continuity when closed. A heater shows a low, steady resistance and not OL. A fan motor winding shows a steady resistance and not OL, and the blades must spin freely by hand. A sensor (thermistor) changes resistance with temperature; the manual gives a table of resistance against temperature (general practice).

1.4 Thermostats, fans, defrost parts, sensors

• Thermostat (cold control). A faulty one can leave the compressor and fans dead. Mechanical types have a thin tube or bulb that senses temperature. Never kink or cut that tube. If the tube is clamped to the evaporator, the clamp is yours; the tube is not to be cut.
• Fans. Fridges have a condenser fan, and frost-free models also have an evaporator fan. Noise and weak airflow are the signs of trouble. A dirty or dry condenser fan makes a rattle or roar at the bottom rear.
• Defrost circuit (frost-free models). A defrost timer or control board, a defrost heater and a defrost thermostat clear frost automatically. You test them one by one in unit 2.
• Sensors (thermistors). Inverter fridges and split ACs use sensors that read temperature. A bad sensor gives a wrong temperature or an error code (general practice). Replace with the same part number.
• Door switch and light. A stuck door switch can leave the fan running, or the light on and the cabinet warm.

1.5 Nameplate and wiring diagram

The nameplate (a label inside the fridge or on the unit) gives the voltage, current (amps), refrigerant type, refrigerant charge, and compressor model. Photograph it. Compare the clamp-meter running current with the nameplate current: a reading clearly higher than the nameplate can mean the compressor is stuck or failing. That is a refer result.

A wiring diagram uses symbols for the compressor, relay, overload, capacitor, thermostat, heater, motor and switch. Symbols differ by maker: read the key on the diagram itself (the common symbol meanings are not sourced here). Trace the path from live to neutral through each part, in order.

1.6 What you may replace

The rule used in this course (the EPA and Energy Commission should confirm it; see the open items) is: parts outside the refrigerant circuit and on the appliance side of the plug.

Open question. Whether a person without EPA certification may lawfully replace a relay or overload that plugs onto the compressor shell has not been confirmed (the text of L.I. 2503 was not found). Until you have the answer in writing from the EPA, do these jobs only under the supervision of a certified technician. Whether a person who is not a CEWP may fit a plug or change an appliance's own power cord is also not verified: ask the Energy Commission. A safe course rule is "appliance parts only; premises wiring to a CEWP".

Check yourself

1. Why do you discharge a capacitor even after unplugging the appliance?
2. Name two parts you may replace under supervision and two you must never touch.
3. A start capacitor marked 80 µF with a 5% limit reads 72 µF. Good or replace?

Competency standard

Range. Domestic fridges, freezers, chest freezers and split ACs. Evidence. Fault-tree sheets; three worked cases; observation; handover report.

2.1 The method

1. Listen to the customer. What happened? When did it start? Any power cut, storm or move?
2. Look. Door, seals, vents, dirt, frost, water, smell, sound.
3. Free and safe checks first. Power at the socket (test with a lamp or tester, not the fridge), plug, fuse, setting, airflow, seals (general practice).
4. Measure. Supply voltage, running current, resistance of suspect parts.
5. Decide. Fix it (yours), fix it with supervision, or refer it.
6. Record. Readings, photos, what you replaced, what you told the customer.

2.2 Fault tree A: fridge or freezer does not cool, or nothing runs

1. Is there power at the socket? Plug and fuse? Cabinet light on? (general practice)
2. Is the temperature control off or at its warmest? A bad cold control can leave compressor and fans dead.
3. Is the voltage protector tripped or in its delay? Wait for the delay and retest.
4. Fans run but the compressor is silent, or the compressor clicks and trips: test the start relay, overload, capacitor (if fitted) and PTC (unit 1).
5. Compressor runs but the fridge does not cool: warm condenser, long running, weak cooling at the coldest setting suggest a sealed-system fault (leak, blockage or weak compressor): stop and refer.
6. Also check a door left slightly open, a dirty condenser, blocked vents, a failed seal.

2.3 Fault tree B: compressor starts then stops

1. Measure the supply voltage at the socket while the fridge tries to start. Low voltage is a major suspect.
2. Test the relay, overload, capacitor and PTC.
3. If the compressor housing is hot, let it cool ten minutes and try again.
4. If the parts test good, the compressor may be stuck. High current on the clamp meter can show this. Refer.

2.4 Fault tree C: excess frost (frost-free fridge)

Manual-defrost models: door left open, bad seal, over-opening or a humid room cause frost: fix the seal, then defrost. For frost-free models, follow this order:

1. Door seal first. Frost in one spot points to a leak.
2. Defrost timer. Turn its dial by hand. The compressor should stop and the heater should come on. If the fridge then runs normally, replace the timer.
3. Defrost thermostat. It should show continuity when cold and be open above about 3 °C (37 °F). If it never closes, the heater gets no power.
4. Defrost heater. Continuity per the manual. Clear heavy ice first before you judge.
5. Control board or thermal fuse (electronic models). Use the manual's service information. Refer if unsure.

Never chip ice with a knife or sharp tool (the same care applies inside a fridge).

2.5 Fault tree D: noise

• Rattle or roar at the bottom rear: dirty or dry condenser fan, a loose drain pan, worn rubber mounts.
• Squeal, chirp or grind inside the freezer: the evaporator fan motor. A rhythmic scrape: ice touching the fan, so go back to the defrost fault.
• Hum turning into a knock, click or loud buzz at the bottom: the compressor. Refer.
• Gurgling, hissing and clicking during defrost are normal.
• Check the fridge is level and nothing touches the wall.

2.6 Fault tree E: trips the breaker, RCD or plug-top

1. Unplug. Check the cord and plug for damage and water.
2. Common causes: water on a heater element, a damaged cord, a wet or burnt relay or capacitor, a failed compressor winding (general practice).
3. Do the resistance tests on the heater and parts. If a compressor winding is suspected, it needs live tests: refer.
4. Never bypass the trip or fit a bigger breaker. Breaker and wiring changes are CEWP work.

2.7 Fault tree F: water on the floor (fridge)

Check the defrost drain and pan for dirt or ice, a cracked hose, and a door that does not seal. Clear the drain with warm water and a soft tool (general practice; a fridge-specific source for drain steps was not found).

2.8 Chest freezers

A chest freezer works like a fridge, but the lid opens on top and the condenser is usually in the walls, so it is hard to clean (check the manual) (general practice). The same fault trees apply: power, thermostat, start parts, seal. Special points:

• Lid seal. Test with a paper strip around all four sides. Warp or a loose hinge lets warm air in.
• Frost. Heavy frost on the walls from an open lid and humid air. Defrost by the steps in Level 1, never with a knife.
• Do not overfill. Air must circulate.
• Water at the bottom. Defrost water: use towels and a tray.
• Warm walls on the outside can be normal (the condenser runs in the wall).

2.9 Split AC fault trees

(Sources for this section are vendor and blog guides: treat with care. Source: Split AC sources.)

Not cooling. 1. Remote: mode set to "Fan" instead of "Cool", set point, batteries. 2. Dirty filter, blocked vents. 3. Outdoor unit blocked or dirty; is its fan running? 4. Indoor blower running? Any ice? 5. Compressor running all the time with weak cooling suggests low refrigerant: certified technician. 6. Tripping or overcurrent: read the clamp current against the nameplate; check the run capacitor on the outdoor unit if the fan or compressor hums and will not start.

Ice on the indoor coil. 1. Switch off and let it thaw fully; it may take hours. Do not scrape or heat the coil. 2. Clean or replace the filter, check vents, check the blower and its wheel (restricted airflow is the usual trigger). 3. If it freezes again with clean filters and good airflow, low refrigerant is suspected: stop running it and call a certified technician. Forcing a frozen system stresses the compressor.

Water leaking indoors. 1. Thaw first if iced. 2. Clear a blocked condensate drain, vacuum from the outer end. 3. Check the indoor unit tilts slightly toward the drain side and the drain hose slopes down. 4. Check for a cracked pan, a loose or kinked hose, and pipe insulation that sweats.

Noise, vibration, smell. A dirty or loose blower wheel, an outdoor fan blade hitting something, loose panels or pipes. A burning smell: switch off at the isolator and stop (general practice).

Trips or will not start. Check the supply voltage at the outdoor isolator; check the breaker rating against the manual; suspect an old capacitor or a seized motor. Do not change the breaker or cable size.

Error codes. Codes differ by brand. Read the unit's manual or the label under the front panel. Brand-specific code lists were not verified.

2.10 Three worked cases

Case 1: "The fridge is warm, the light is on, nothing runs." Step 1: socket has power (lamp lit). Step 2: control is on a middle setting. Step 3: the voltage guard shows a delay light: wait three minutes. Result: the fridge starts. Cause: guard delay after a power cut. Cost: nil. Lesson: free checks first.

Case 2: "It clicks, then goes quiet, repeat." Step 1: voltage at the socket 218 V (example) while trying to start: fine. Step 2: unplug, wait ten minutes, photograph, test. Overload 0.2 ohm: good. PTC reads OL: broken, with a rattle. Step 3: fit a PTC of the same type. Fridge starts. Clamp current is below nameplate. Cause: broken PTC. Record the readings and keep the old part to show the customer.

Case 3: "Split AC cooling badly, iced up." Step 1: remote on "Cool". Step 2: filter very dirty. Thaw, clean the filter, restart. Step 3: three days later it ices again with a clean filter and good airflow. Result: low refrigerant suspected. Refer: write a handover report with photos, the nameplate details, the dates and what you cleaned, and pass it to a certified technician. Do not run the unit frozen.

2.11 The handover report (to a certified technician)

Write on one page: customer name and place; date; make, model and nameplate details (refrigerant type, charge, volts, amps); symptoms; what you checked and the readings; photos; what you did; what you did not do; why you think the sealed system is involved. A clear report saves the technician time and makes your referral valued.

Check yourself

1. In which order do you do a fault-tree: free checks, measurements, or parts replacement?
2. A split AC freezes again with a clean filter and good airflow. What do you do?
3. A fridge compressor runs but the cabinet stays warm and the condenser is hot. Fix it yourself or refer?

Competency standard

Range. Wall-mounted split air conditioners; a fridge or freezer in a kitchen or shop. Evidence. Position sketch; mounting and drain test (supervised); ladder check; handover checklist.

3.1 The big picture: who does what

A split air conditioner has an indoor unit (evaporator coil, blower, filter, drain pan, control board) and an outdoor unit (compressor, condenser coil, fan), joined by two copper pipes, a drain hose and a cable.

If the installation uses a flammable refrigerant, extra rules apply to charge size and room size. That is another reason the licensed steps are not yours.

3.2 Choosing positions (follow the maker's manual first)

Sources and manuals disagree on exact numbers, so your unit's manual always wins.

Indoor unit

1. Away from direct heat, with free air in front, on a solid wall.
2. Not where the cold air blows straight onto a bed or a desk (general practice).
3. High enough. Sources differ: at least 2 m and about 2.1 m. A Toshiba manual quoted in the research gave at least 2.5 m (not verified here). Use your manual's figure.
4. Positioned above the outdoor unit if you can, so the drain slopes down.
5. Close to the outdoor unit: long pipe runs are limited by the model (see the flag below).

Outdoor unit

1. In the shade if possible, with the clearances the manual gives on all sides and for service access.
2. Discharged air must not be blocked or breathed back in by the unit (general practice; the maker's manual gives the clearances). A rough "60 cm" clearance is only a guide.
3. Away from where people sleep (noise), dirt, and flood water.
4. On a firm bracket or concrete stand, never on a loose wall that cannot carry it.

3.3 Mounting and drain: the helper steps

You need: pencil, spirit level, drill with masonry bits, anchors (plastic plugs) and screws, tape measure, a stud/beam finder or a tapping check, hole cutter or core drill (supervised), insulated drain hose, water jug, torch, drip sheet, dust sheet. Buy from electrical and building-materials shops in Takoradi Market Circle (prices: not verified).

1. Survey with the customer. Pick the wall and check no pipe or cable runs behind it (ask your supervisor how to check). Take a photo.
2. Mark and level the wall plate. Hold it up, level both ways, and mark the holes. A maker's manual may ask for a plate that is level or slightly tilted toward the drain side. Follow the manual.
3. Drill and fix. Use anchors in solid wall; one guide suggests holes about 32 mm deep for plastic anchors. Use all the fixing holes.
4. Drill the pipe hole through the wall, tilted slightly down toward the outside so rain and condensate do not run in. One manual reviewed in research gave a 65 mm hole; hole size is model-specific, follow your manual (not verified here).
5. Hang the indoor unit on the plate and make sure it clicks home. Two people lift.
6. Route the drain hose downhill all the way, with no kinks or rises. Test the drain before you tape or insulate it: pour water slowly onto the coil or into the pan and watch it run out (one maker's manual says this; not verified from a named source here).
7. Mount the outdoor bracket with proper anchors, then place the unit (two people, never one alone).
8. Keep the pipes tidy and insulated. Insulation on the pipes must be whole, to stop sweating (general practice). The connection of the pipes and cable is for the licensed people.
9. After the licensed steps are done: with the customer, run the unit and check airflow, no water leaks, no strange noise, and current within the nameplate.
10. Clean up and take away all rubbish.

3.4 Handover and customer training

3.5 Working at height

Mounting an outdoor unit or reaching a high wall often means a ladder. Falls are common and serious. Use the ladder rules from workplace safety:

1. Check the ladder every time: rungs, feet, locks, no cracks or bends.
2. Angle: 1 in 4. One unit out for every four up (about 75°).
3. The ladder should reach at least 1 m (three rungs) above where you step off.
4. Tie it, rest it on strong, level ground, face the rungs, keep three points of contact, keep your belt buckle between the side rails.
5. Stepladder: all four feet on level ground, locks engaged.
6. Keep away from overhead power lines: use a non-conducting ladder near electricity and keep about 6 m from lines.
7. Ladders suit short, low-risk jobs: about 30 minutes at a time.
8. Never carry an outdoor unit up a ladder. Use a trolley, a rope and a helper on the ground, or a hoist your supervisor controls.

Check yourself

1. Name two things only an EPA-certified technician may do on a split installation.
2. Why do you test the drain with water before taping the hose?
3. Is rooftop work a trainee task?

Competency standard

Range. Display fridges, upright and chest commercial freezers, ice makers, cold rooms (awareness). Evidence. Equipment table; care checklist; temperature log; route-to-certification plan.

4.1 What the equipment is

The care points below are general practice. Check the maker's manual.

4.2 Cold rooms for fish and food

A cold room is a well-insulated space. A condensing unit outside (with the compressor and condenser) sends refrigerant to an evaporator and fan inside. It is the same cycle you learned in Level 1, only bigger. What matters for the user:

1. Keep the door shut as much as possible. A long opening lets warm, damp air in and makes frost.
2. Do not load hot food or warm fish straight in. Cool it first or load a little at a time.
3. Leave air gaps between boxes and around the evaporator so air can move.
4. Keep a temperature log (see 4.3).
5. Keep it clean: wipe spills, mop the floor, clear the drain.
6. Keep raw fish and raw food apart from cooked or ready-to-eat food.

(All six points are general practice, not from a cited source.) Target temperatures depend on the product and on the law. Common practice is a fridge at 3–5 °C and a freezer at −18 °C, but these figures were not verified from a cited source in this research. Ask the maker, the Food and Drugs Authority or the Veterinary Services for the rule for your product.

Akwidaa and Takoradi. Fish smokers, farmers and shops need cold storage. How many freezers and cold rooms are in use there was not quantified here. GIZ says fridge and air-conditioner ownership is rising faster than the supply of trained technicians. That is an opportunity, if you do it legally.

4.3 Temperature log: the simplest cold-chain tool

1. Use a digital probe thermometer or the unit's display. Put the probe in the middle of the cabinet, away from the door.
2. Read at fixed times: morning, midday, evening.
3. Write the date, time, reading and your initials on a sheet taped to the unit.
4. If two readings in a row are outside the target, check the door, the seal, the condenser and the power, and tell the owner. If it is still out, refer.
5. Keep the log. It proves the food was kept cold if there is a complaint.

4.4 The route to certification

The steps in plain words. Details change, so check each step with the EPA.

1. Learn principles, cleaning, maintenance and diagnosis: Levels 1 and 2 of this course.
2. Work under a certified technician and keep a record of the jobs you assisted with.
3. Ask the EPA about certification. The EPA said in October 2024 that technicians without certification "will not be allowed to work in the field", that the certificate is a licence, and that the training is free. Enrolment steps, content, duration, locations and any certificate fee were not found: ask the EPA National Ozone Unit or its Western Regional office.
4. Training centres. Ghana has Centres of Excellence in refrigeration and air conditioning in Accra, Kumasi and Takoradi; a later report adds Tamale. The Takoradi centre is at Takoradi Technical Institute. Its exact name, address and phone number were not found: phone Takoradi Technical Institute to ask about intake and requirements. Reports give different numbers of technicians trained, so do not quote a number without its date.
5. GIZ training has covered R290 split air conditioners, for example a trainers' course in October–November 2023. Whether such courses are free to individuals was not verified.
6. CTVET. The project's earlier research says CTVET lists Refrigeration and Air Conditioning NC I–II. An official syllabus, grades and exam fees were not found: ask CTVET (ctvet.gov.gh) or NVTI.
7. Ask the Energy Commission for the current Certified Electrical Wiring Professional steps if you want wiring too. Exam fees quoted in one report (Domestic GH¢450, Commercial GH¢580, Industrial GH¢720) may have changed.

Women in refrigeration. A 2026 analysis found women were 6.8% of enrolment in the cooling sector, and a gender strategy was being prepared. If you are a woman, you are needed. Look for a mentor and a training centre that supports you.

4.5 Why this matters beyond Ghana

Ghana ratified the Montreal Protocol and its amendments, including Kigali. New equipment is moving to natural refrigerants like R600a and R290, which are flammable, so safe handling and certification matter more than ever.

Check yourself

1. Why must you keep a cold room's door shut?
2. Who may handle the refrigerant in a commercial unit?
3. Name two steps on the route to EPA certification.

Competency standard

Range. A domestic fridge, freezer or split AC repair or service. Evidence. Job card; quote; parts log; observation of a customer role play.

5.1 The honest quote: step by step

1. Diagnose first. Do the fault tree (unit 2). Never quote a fault you have not measured.
2. List the parts with the exact specification (type, rating, model). Add the real price you paid, then your mark-up.
3. Add labour. Use hours worked at your rate.
4. Add transport and any consumables.
5. If the fault needs refrigerant work, show it as a separate line: "certified technician, refrigerant step", paid to that technician at the agreed fee, with their name and certificate seen by you. Do not hide it or do the work yourself.
6. Write the total, the deposit and when the balance is due.
7. Get the customer's yes (a signature or a WhatsApp reply) before you start.
8. If you find another problem during the job, stop and tell the customer before adding to the bill.

Price benchmarks. An Accra directory (third-party, undated, unverified) listed fridge repairs from about GH¢200 for a thermostat replacement to about GH¢900 for a complete cooling-system overhaul, and a premium workshop at GH¢300–1,200. These are rough ranges only. Collect five real quotes from Takoradi workshops as your own price base (see the homework). Split AC service prices and installation labour in Takoradi were not found.

5.2 Parts sourcing

1. Read the part and the nameplate. Write the number, rating and type. Take a photo or the old part to the seller.
2. Buy the same specification: same type, rating and terminals. Do not use a "nearly right" part.
3. Where to look: electrical and refrigeration spares shops in Takoradi, repair shops that strip used fridges, and online classifieds such as Jiji. Local parts prices were not verified: build your own price list.
4. Check the part before you pay: no cracks, burn marks, bulges or rattles (the shake test).
5. Ask for a receipt that names the part and the date. Keep it.
6. Used parts. Used relays and fans are cheaper but may fail soon. Tell the customer if you fit a used part and give a shorter warranty.
7. Ask the seller if the part is returnable if it does not fit.

Some useful prices seen on classified sites on 8 October 2026 (asking prices, a few weeks may change them): a digital multimeter (Uni-T UT33B+) GH¢250; a clamp meter (Ingco 600A) GH¢270; test leads GH¢29. A 13 A fridge voltage guard was listed at GH¢70, or GH¢65 for five or more, plus GH¢20–30 delivery; the listing date shows 30/09, year not shown, and it contradicts itself on the delay time.

5.3 Warranties

There are two kinds, and you must not mix them up.

• The maker's warranty on a new fridge or air conditioner. Read it with the customer before you touch the appliance. Many makers say a repair by an unauthorised person can end the warranty (general practice; not verified for each maker). If the unit is under warranty, tell the customer to call the seller.
• Your repair warranty. Say clearly in writing what you cover (the part you fitted and your labour), for how long, and what you do not cover (a new fault, misuse, power surges, water damage). Example: 30 days on parts and labour. If you repair on 8 October 2026, a 30-day warranty runs to 7 November 2026.

Do not promise "this fridge will never break again" or "I'll fix the gas for free". You cannot do gas work, so do not promise it.

5.4 Records that protect you

Photograph each job: before, the nameplate, the faulty part, and after (with the customer's permission).

5.5 Customer handling

1. Greet. Listen first. Write the complaint in the customer's words.
2. Explain in plain words. "The small starter part is broken. A new one costs this much. It takes an hour."
3. Be honest about limits. "This one is a gas problem. I am not allowed to do gas work. I will bring a certified technician and you will see their certificate." Customers trust people who say this.
4. Respect the home or shop. Shoe covers or a mat, a drip sheet, clean up, leave the place tidy.
5. Keep to time. If you are late, send a message before the time.
6. Teach the customer one care habit at every visit (clean the filter; keep the grill clear; do not overload).
7. Complaints. Listen, do not argue, write it down, go back and look. If you were wrong, fix it for free. If a customer is rude or unsafe, you may leave and return with your supervisor.

Check yourself

1. Why show a certified technician's fee as a separate line on the quote?
2. What should a repair warranty say?
3. What do you do when you find a second fault during a job?

Competency standard

Range. Domestic fridges, freezers and split ACs. Evidence. After-repair checklist; disposal plan; oral questions.

6.1 Quality: the after-repair test

Before you leave:

Call-backs. A call-back is when a customer calls you back to the same fault after you "fixed" it. Count them. First-time fix rate = (jobs not called back ÷ all jobs) × 100. Look at each call-back and ask why (5 Whys, as in Workplace Safety Level 2).

6.2 Refrigerant leaks and fire risks: what to do

You do not search for leaks with equipment or repair them. You can notice the signs: poor cooling, a hissing sound, an oily stain at a joint (general practice). If you suspect a leak:

1. Stop using the appliance. Switch off at the wall only if it is safe to reach and there is no smell of gas; otherwise leave it.
2. Flammable refrigerant (R600a, R290, R32): no flames, no sparks, no switches, open doors and windows, keep people away, call a certified technician (this wording is general practice; Source: UNEP flammable guide).
3. Do not breathe fumes in a closed room. Refrigerant can collect low down and in enclosed spaces. Liquid refrigerant can freeze skin and eyes. Burning or brazing it can create toxic products.
4. First aid: move to fresh air, flush eyes and skin with water, and get medical help. Do nothing else medical.
5. Report it to your supervisor and write it in the job card.
6. Never cut, heat or puncture any pipe. The sealed system holds pressure.

6.3 Old fridges and air conditioners: disposal

An old fridge or air conditioner still holds refrigerant and oil. Breaking one open lets the refrigerant escape. Ghana's National Ozone Officer warned that dismantling old units without first recovering the refrigerant releases it.

Steps:

1. Do not cut, crush, burn or dismantle it.
2. Tell the customer it must go to a certified technician for refrigerant recovery.
3. Store it upright and away from rain and children. Remove or secure the door so that a child cannot be trapped inside (general practice).
4. Do not dump it in a drain, bush or open lot.
5. Keep a record of where it went (name, date, place).
6. Reusable parts. A working relay, fan or gasket from a scrapped unit can be reused, with the customer's permission and only after testing. Never take parts that belong inside the sealed system.

6.4 The e-waste and environment law

The Environmental Protection Act 2025 (Act 1124) is the new framework. It requires registration of pesticides and industrial chemicals. Earlier, the Hazardous and Electronic Waste Control and Management Act, 2016 (Act 917) covered electronic waste. Reports say Act 1124 replaced or consolidated Act 917, but this was not verified here, and the section numbers and the exact rules for old fridges, air conditioners and e-waste collectors were not verified. Ask the EPA. Do not tell customers a section number you have not checked.

Ghana also uses an import licence and quota system under L.I. 2505 (2025) for ozone-depleting substances and their alternatives. Rules on used equipment imports were not verified.

What this means for you:

• Old fridges and air conditioners are waste with special rules. Handle them as above.
• Used capacitors, circuit boards and cables are electronic waste: keep them in a closed box, do not burn them, and give them to a registered collector when you find one (the list of registered collectors was not found; ask the EPA).
• Do not pour used cleaning chemicals down a drain. Use water-based coil cleaner as the manual directs.

6.5 Save the customer energy (tested tips)

All of these you can do by hand:

1. Clean the coils and filters (poor maintenance raises running cost).
2. Check the door seal (unit 2 exercise showed a leaky seal costs more).
3. Keep out of the sun and away from the cooker; leave air space around the unit (general practice).
4. Set the thermostat sensibly: do not set an air conditioner as cold as it will go.
5. Do not overfill; let hot food cool first.
6. Read the star label (1–5 stars, annual use, cooling output, refrigerant).
7. Inverter models are reported to run about 30–40% cheaper to run, but they cost more to buy.
8. Protect the compressor with a voltage guard rated for the appliance and wait 3–5 minutes after any outage before restarting a fridge (general practice; a listing shows guard delays of 90 seconds to 5 minutes; Source: Jiji fridge guard). Whether a stabiliser is needed for inverter units was not verified: ask the maker.

Check yourself

1. What do you do first if you suspect a flammable refrigerant leak?
2. Why must you not break open an old fridge?
3. Which Act is the new Environmental Protection Act?

Competency standard

Range. A small cleaning, bench-repair or partner service. Evidence. Business plan; costing; marketing profile; access note.

7.1 Location settings that give good returns

(There are no sourced figures on demand in Takoradi; these are places to ask.)

GIZ says ownership of fridges and air conditioners is rising faster than the number of trained technicians. The Ministry of Labour has agreed a plan that names refrigeration and air conditioning among its youth-training areas, at 3,800 youth a year.

7.2 Small business ideas that stay legal

Importers of air conditioners and refrigerators must meet Energy Commission registration, testing and labelling rules. If you sell appliances, sell only labelled and registered models.

Starter kit costs. Multimeter GH¢250 + clamp meter GH¢270 + test leads GH¢29 = GH¢549 from the prices seen on 8 October 2026, before hand tools. Hand-tool, cleaner and spares prices were not found.

Registering a business, tax, SSNIT and records are covered in Level 3.

7.3 Market yourself honestly

1. WhatsApp Business. Set up a business profile with your name, the services you offer, your area and opening hours, and use greeting and away messages. Say clearly: "I clean and repair electrical parts. For refrigerant work I work with an EPA-certified technician."
2. Google Business Profile. A free profile helps nearby people find you. Verification can be by phone, email, video call or postcard.
3. Photos. Before-and-after pictures of a cleaned filter or coil, with the customer's permission.
4. A sticker on the unit: technician name, date, next clean due, phone number.
5. Referrals. Ask every happy customer for the name of one friend. Leave cards at shops.
6. Free first-visit checklist for shops and guest houses.
7. Listings on classified sites such as Jiji or Tonaton.
8. Never claim a certificate you do not hold. Claiming EPA certification when you do not have it is a trust and a legal problem. The EPA director warned of fines and arrest for uncertified technicians.

7.4 Accessibility

The Persons with Disability Act, 2006 (Act 715) is the law on disability rights; reports say many public places still do not follow it fully. The Labour Act asks for training suited to the worker. The tables below are suggested adjustments by the author; no refrigeration-specific disability guide for Ghana was found. The same safety rules (isolate, discharge, no refrigerant) apply to everyone.

Ask your District Assembly about help for disabled entrepreneurs. Reports said the Assemblies' disability share would rise to 5% from 2026; this was not verified for this manual.

Check yourself

1. Name two legal business ideas for a Level 2 trainee.
2. What must you never claim in your advert?
3. Name one task a wheelchair user can do well at a raised bench.

1. Why must you discharge a capacitor even after unplugging?
2. Name four things you must never do to a refrigerant circuit.
3. Who may wire a house?
4. What is the typical cool resistance of an overload protector?
5. A start capacitor marked 100 µF with a 5% limit reads 92 µF. Good or replace?
6. In a frost-free fridge, which part do you check first for heavy frost?
7. A split AC freezes again with a clean filter. What do you do?
8. What is the 1-in-4 ladder rule?
9. Name two installation steps only licensed people may do.
10. Why keep a cold-room door shut?
11. How should an old fridge be handled?
12. Which statement must you never put in your advert?

Best next reads: the EPA (Ghana) National Ozone Unit and its Western Regional office; Takoradi Technical Institute; the GIZ "Good Practices in Refrigeration" manual (download from the Green Cooling Initiative; read it for awareness, not as a licence to do refrigerant work); the UNEP quick guide on good servicing practices for flammable refrigerants; the maker's manual for every appliance you touch.

What this module does not cover: refrigerant handling, charging, recovery, brazing or evacuation; house wiring; installation of the refrigerant pipes; an EPA or CTVET certificate; the full text of L.I. 2503 and L.I. 2505 (not found); commercial three-phase and ammonia systems; and Takoradi prices for parts and services (collect your own quotes).

Every source used in this manual is listed, with links, in the Teacher Copy.